Checking for bed bugs when traveling is crucial to ensure a comfortable and pest-free stay. Bed bugs are small, parasitic insects that feed on human blood and are notorious for infesting beds and other furniture. Here's a detailed description of how to check for bed bugs when traveling:
Before you leave for our trip:
Research your accommodations and look for reviews or reports of bed bug infestations at your chosen place to stay. If there are multiple complaints, consider picking another accommodation.
Pack essential items and bring a small flashlight, magnifying glass, and a set of plastic bags to aid your inspection.
Upon arrival:
Store your luggage appropriately and avoid immediately placing your bags on the bed or upholstered furniture. Instead, utilize a luggage rack (inspect it first) or put your bags in the bathroom or bathtub until you've completed the inspection.
Here are the common places where bed bugs are found:
In the seams of chairs and couches, between cushions, in the folds of curtains. In drawer joints. In electrical receptacles and appliances. Under loose wallpaper and wall hangings. At the seams where the wall and the ceiling meet. Even in the head of a screw in furniture.
Let's start by visually inspecting the sleeping area and examining the headboard, mattress, box spring, and nearby furniture. Watch out for small brown live bed bugs, molted exoskeletons, dark spots (fecal stains), or tiny bloodstains.
In active infestations, live bed bugs can usually be found crawling around the sleeping areas, while squashed dead bugs often leave red-brown stains on the mattress or bedding. Also, look for tiny white eggs, light yellow casings, and other noticeable signs of bed bug activity.
After that, proceed to check the bedding. If possible, remove the sheets, pillows, and mattress cover, and inspect them thoroughly for any signs of bed bugs. Examine the bare mattress and box spring for bugs. Pay attention to the tufts of fabric along the mattress seams.
Next, examine the nightstand both inside and outside. Kneel and inspect the screw holes and outer edges along the sides of the nightstand. Search for signs of live bugs, eggs, and casings like in previous inspections. Additionally, open each drawer and look for any indications of bed bug activity.
Inspect the furniture:
Examine chairs, sofas, and any upholstered furniture in the room. Pay close attention to seams, crevices, and tufts, where bed bugs like to hide.
Scan the room:
Check the baseboards, electrical outlets, wall hangings, and behind picture frames. For framed pictures, lift them up and away from the wall if they are not securely mounted. Look for any live bugs in that area. If the pictures are securely mounted, you can skip this step. Look through the curtains. Check your room for any side windows and curtains.
Tiny bed bugs can hide in cracks and crevices, making them hard to spot. Shine a light behind your headboard or nightstand, and look for any sign of bugs crawling away, which indicates that your room is infested.
Look for physical evidence of an infestation by scanning for small, oval-shaped bugs (about the size of an apple seed), exoskeletons, fecal stains (dark spots), or bloodstains on sheets and mattresses.
Pay attention to common hiding spots:
Bed bugs prefer to hide close to their food source (you!). Check the seams, tufts, and tags of the mattress, box spring, and pillows.
Inspect upholstered furniture thoroughly, focusing on seams, crevices, and zippers.
Check behind the headboard, as bed bugs often cluster there.
Examine any cracks or crevices in wooden furniture, including bedside tables and dressers.
Stay vigilant during your stay:
Even if you don't find any signs of bed bugs during your initial inspection, you must remain vigilant throughout your stay. Bed bugs can be introduced to a room at any time.
Avoid placing your luggage or personal items directly on the bed or upholstered furniture.
What you are looking for... Bed bug signs
Live Bed Bugs – Bed bugs are small, flat and oval-shaped. They have six legs and two antennae and are a reddish-brown color. Adult bed bugs are usually around 5-6mm in size.
Blood smears – This happens when a bed bug has been accidentally crushed after a meal and look like small red stains. This comes from the undigested blood in its body.
Dark/black stains – This comes from the bed bug excrement after a meal.
Shed skin – A bed bug sheds its skin to grow and move on to the next stage of its life cycle. Once they have fully matured they will no longer go through this process. Seeing many shed skins usually means a large infestation.
Bed bug eggs – Bed bugs can lay anywhere between 200 and 500 eggs over two months, and are usually laid in batches of 10. Bed bug eggs are 1mm long and are colored pearly white.
If you find signs of bed bugs:
Notify the management immediately: If you discover any evidence of bed bugs, inform the hotel or accommodation management right away. Request a room change or find alternative accommodations if necessary.
Launder your clothes: If you suspect bed bugs have come into contact with your clothing, seal them in plastic bags until they can be laundered in hot water and dried on high heat.
Inspect your luggage: Before leaving the hotel, thoroughly inspect your luggage and personal belongings. Wipe down your suitcase with a damp cloth to remove any potential hitchhikers.
Remember, bed bugs can be found in a variety of places beyond hotels, such as on public transportation, public libraries, retail stores, and movie theaters.
In the bustling urban landscape of New York City, the importance of maintaining a pest-free environment is paramount for both homeowners and businesses alike. However, traditional pest control methods often come with a high environmental cost. At Positive Pest Management, we believe in a different approach—one that is as kind to the earth as it is tough on pests. This approach is not just a part of our service; it's a commitment to our values of sustainability and responsibility.
The Rising Demand for Eco-Friendly Solutions
Understanding the Eco-Conscious Consumer
The modern consumer is more informed and environmentally conscious than ever before. There's a growing awareness about the harmful effects of chemicals used in traditional pest control methods, not just on the environment but also on human health. This shift in consumer consciousness demands pest control solutions that are effective without compromising ecological integrity.
The Environmental Impact of Pest Control
Pest control chemicals can contaminate soil, water, and air, leading to a detrimental impact on local ecosystems. By choosing eco-friendly pest control methods, we minimize this impact, preserving the delicate balance of our urban ecosystem and ensuring the safety of our clients' surroundings.
Integrated Pest Management: Our Strategy
What is Integrated Pest Management (IPM)?
Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is a comprehensive approach to pest control that emphasizes using eco-friendly methods to manage pest issues with the least possible hazard to people, property, and the environment. IPM is not a single pest control method but a series of pest management evaluations, decisions, and controls.
Implementing IPM at Positive Pest Management
At Positive Pest Management, we implement IPM by focusing on pest prevention, using knowledge about pests' habits and life cycles, and employing environmentally sensitive treatments. We prioritize methods such as biological control, habitat manipulation, and resistant varieties, turning to chemicals as a last resort and selecting products with lower toxicity levels to protect the environment.
The Benefits of Eco-Friendly Pest Control
Health and Safety First
Eco-friendly pest control reduces the risk of exposure to toxic substances for humans and pets. This is especially important in sensitive environments such as schools, hospitals, and food service establishments where health and safety standards are non-negotiable.
Long-Term Sustainability
By using methods that are less disruptive to the natural environment, we ensure long-term sustainability. Eco-friendly pest control helps in maintaining biodiversity and reducing our carbon footprint, contributing to the overall health of our planet.
Our Eco-Friendly Practices in Action
Preventative Measures
We start with prevention, the most eco-friendly pest control method. By sealing entry points and eliminating food and water sources, we make environments less attractive to pests.
Green Products
When treatments are necessary, we use green products that are certified to be environmentally friendly. These products are designed to target pests without causing unnecessary harm to other wildlife or the surrounding environment.
Why Choose Positive Pest Management?
Our Commitment to Excellence
Our dedication to providing exceptional service matches our commitment to eco-friendly practices. We understand that each client has unique needs, and we tailor our IPM strategies accordingly, ensuring both efficacy and environmental responsibility.
Your Partner in Sustainable Pest Control
Choosing Positive Pest Management means partnering with a company that cares about the future. We're not just exterminators; we're your neighbors, committed to maintaining a healthy, pest-free community.
Contact Positive Pest Management
Ready to embrace a pest-free life without compromising the health of our planet? Contact Positive Pest Management at 800-294-3130 or visit our website at Positive Pest Management to learn more about our eco-friendly pest control solutions. Let's work together for a sustainable, pest-free future!
Construction and demolition projects are complex, with every phase needing to go as planned to avoid delays and additional costs. One often overlooked aspect that can cause significant setbacks is the presence of rodents. At Positive Pest Management, we understand the critical nature of this problem and have a solution that ensures your project remains on track: prebaiting. Let's explore how our specialized prebaiting services can save you from the unexpected headaches that rodents cause.
Understanding the Risks of Rodent Infestations
The Hidden Costs of Rodent Presence
Rodents are more than just a nuisance; they can cause structural damage, gnaw through materials, and even pose health risks. Their presence on a construction site can lead to unforeseen expenses, from replacing damaged materials to addressing health and safety violations.
Compliance with Health Regulations
In New York City, the Department of Health has stringent regulations regarding rodent abatement. Failure to comply can result in fines and delays, as demolition permits are contingent upon certifying a property as rodent-free. This is where Positive Pest Management's expertise becomes invaluable.
The Prebaiting Process: A Proactive Approach
Inspection and Identification
Our licensed technicians conduct thorough site inspections, identifying signs of infestation such as droppings, gnaw marks, and nests. We meticulously check for potential entry points, ensuring nothing is overlooked.
Setting the Stage with Prebaiting
Before setting traps, we engage in a careful prebaiting process. This strategy conditions rodents to the bait, significantly increasing the success rate when traps are activated. It's a methodical approach that ensures higher catch rates and a more effective rodent control process.
Sealing the Deal: Exclusion Techniques
Preventing Re-entry
After prebaiting, we seal up any potential entry points. Ongoing exclusion is crucial for long-term rodent control, ensuring that once the rodents are removed, they can't find their way back in.
Continuous Monitoring
Our technicians are trained in humane animal removal methods and will monitor and re-bait all stations and traps daily. We don't just set and forget; we are actively involved in ensuring the complete cessation of rodent activity.
Documentation and Compliance
Thorough Record-Keeping
We provide detailed documentation of our inspection findings, treatment plans, and the results of our abatement efforts. This documentation is crucial for meeting NYC Department of Health standards and obtaining the necessary permits to proceed with demolition or construction.
Certificates of Rodent Abatement
Upon completion of our services, we provide official certificates verifying that your property is pest-free. This not only meets legal requirements but also gives you peace of mind that the job has been done thoroughly and humanely.
Partner with Positive Pest Management
Expertise You Can Trust
With years of experience and a deep understanding of NYC's regulations, Positive Pest Management is the partner you need to ensure your construction project is free from the costly interruptions that rodents can cause.
Ready for a Pest-Free Project?
Don't let rodents derail your construction schedule or budget. Contact Positive Pest Management at 800-294-3130 or visit our website at Positive Pest Management to schedule your prebaiting service. Let us help you keep your project moving forward, on time, and within budget.
Positive Pest Management - Your construction project deserves the best defense against pests. Let's build a pest-free future together. #RodentFreeConstruction #PrebaitingPros #NYCPestControl #ConstructionPestManagement #PositivePestPrebaiting
New York City, with its iconic skyline and bustling streets, is not just home to millions of people but also a persistent and unwelcome resident: the rat. The issue of rat infestations in the city has been a long-standing problem, affecting residential and commercial properties. In this post, we'll delve into the challenges these rodents pose, the city's efforts to combat the issue, and how Positive Pest Management can assist in ensuring compliance with new regulations.
The Rat Menace in NYC
Rats have been synonymous with New York City for decades. Their ability to thrive in urban environments, combined with the city's dense population and vast underground networks, has made it a prime habitat for these pests. Not only do they pose health risks, but they also cause structural damage and are a nuisance to residents and businesses alike.
New Regulations to Tackle the Issue
To address the rat problem, New York City Mayor Eric Adams recently signed a new law that places the responsibility of extermination costs on contractors for specific construction projects. This move aims to ensure that construction activities that disturb rat habitats do not exacerbate the rodent issue.
Key Points of the New Law
The regulations apply to projects that involve 50% or more of the floor area of a building.
Projects where the proposed vertical or horizontal enlargement increases the building's floor area by more than 25%.
Partial demolition projects that involve more than 50% of the floor area of a building.
This law signifies a significant shift in the city's approach to pest control, emphasizing prevention over reaction. It also underscores the importance of involving pest control professionals early in the construction process.
Strategies for Rat Control and Prevention
1. Regular Inspections
For both residential and commercial properties, regular inspections are crucial. Identifying potential entry points and signs of infestation can prevent larger infestations.
2. Sanitation
Rats are attracted to food sources. Ensuring that garbage is adequately stored and disposed of can deter these pests.
3. Exclusion
Sealing off potential entry points, such as gaps in walls or floors, can prevent rats from entering properties.
4. Professional Extermination
In cases of infestations, professional extermination is the most effective way to eliminate the problem and prevent future infestations.
Positive Pest Management: Your Partner in Compliance
With the new regulations in place, contractors across New York City will need a reliable partner to ensure compliance. Positive Pest Management is uniquely positioned to assist. With our expertise in pest control and deep understanding of the city's rat problems, we can provide effective solutions tailored to the needs of contractors and property owners.
Ready to tackle the rat problem head-on? Don't wait for an infestation to escalate. Visit our website for more insights, or call us at 1-800-294-3130. If you have specific questions or require a tailored solution, please fill out our contact form, and our team will assist you promptly.
In the fight against the rat menace in New York City, being proactive is key. With Positive Pest Management by your side, you can ensure a rat-free environment and full compliance with the city's regulations.
Black ants are one of the most common nuisance pests that you may find wandering in your home. You’ll often see them lined up in a trail as they go in and out of their ant nests in search of food and water. Compared to other household insects, spotting ants aren’t always a cause for concern and they’re usually harmless as long as they don’t view you as a threat to their entire colony.
So how common is it for black house ants to bite people? When black house ants bite, they do it to protect their nests from threats and keep intruders away. They aren’t aggressive and they won’t bite people for no reason. A carpenter ant bite is not as painful and dangerous since they don’t release any poisonous venom. However, they do let out formic acid which can cause slight irritation or a burning sensation to the skin.
What To Know About Black House Ants and Their Bites
Ants may be small but they have a set of strong mandibles that they use to pick up and carry their food, and to create tunnels or galleries in wood to build their nesting places. These mandibles are also what you feel when you notice a tiny ant on your skin. Ants are said to have incredible jaw strength and they can give a powerful bite that can penetrate the human skin.
When it comes to black house ants, both the carpenter ant and little black ant may carry some degree of bite risks to people. Here’s an overview on how to distinguish between the two black ants and their bites:
Black carpenter ant
Little black ant (Monomorium minimum)
What they look like
They’re the most common species of ants that usually appear black or brown with reddish legs. Minor workers of this ant species can be 1/4 inch in length while major workers measure about 1/2 inch long. They have an evenly smoothed thorax with bent antennae on their head. Their jaws or mandibles are located at the front, and behind the mandibles is their mouth which they use to eat their food.
Unlike carpenter ants that are identified by their big bodies, these little black ants are small and usually appear 1/16 inch in length. They also have an antenna on their head with unevenly rounded bodies and thorax with no spines.
How common are their bites
Carpenter ants only bite when they’re provoked. You’re most likely to get an ant bite when you accidentally come across their satellite nests and the black ants come to swarm to defend their home. When you see a carpenter ant nest in your home, it’s best to avoid them and contact a pest control professional to eliminate the risk of carpenter ant bites.
While they also have a set of mandibles, little black ants don’t pose bite dangers to humans. They may sting a little but their bites aren’t as noticeable as the bite from a big black carpenter ant.
What are the signs of their bite
When their mandibles come into contact with human skin, they can release a small amount of formic acid which can cause a minor burning or painful stings. It can be itchy but you shouldn’t scratch them to avoid getting an infection. Other signs of carpenter ant bite can include swelling, redness, and visible marks.
Due to their small size, the bite from a little black ant will not cause an obvious reaction on humans. They may elicit a temporary itchy sensation with which a quick scratch can help soothe the discomfort.
Is their ant bite dangerous
Their formic acid isn’t at all venomous or toxic so it will rarely cause any health risk or severe allergic reaction.
No, little black ant bites are not dangerous. They’re not harmful social insects and are only a nuisance to the home.
First Aid Reminders When You Get A Carpenter Ant Bite
The good thing about most carpenter ant bites is that they can be easily remedied at home. With immediate first aid treatment, they can go away and heal fully within several days of the bite incident. Here are some tips for when you need to treat a carpenter ant bite:
Disinfect the site: Clean the bite with water and soap to wash away the formic acid. Dry the area with a cool clean cloth.
Apply a cold compress: If you notice any inflammation or swelling on the bite site, an ice pack or cold compress can help reduce the sensation.
Bandage and cover the bite: If the skin on the wound is broken, you can put an antibiotic ointment to clean the area and avoid skin infections. It’s also best to cover the bite site with a bandage to allow it to heal without any risk of any bacteria entering the wound.
Don’t scratch the bite: It’s a general reminder to avoid scratching the wounded site to avoid further irritating or infecting the skin. You may use an ice pack or apply antihistamine cream to temporarily get relief from itching.
Allergic reactions from a black ant bite are very rare but when they happen, it’s important to seek immediate medical help. Some signs of allergic reaction from an ant bite can be difficulty breathing, hives on the skin, increased heart rate, flu-like symptoms, or pale skin.
Why Do Black Ants Bite?
Ants bite for one main reason: to defend their ant colony. Like most insects and pests, if ants detect threats to their indoor nests, they will become defensive and put their mandibles to use to bite and protect themselves and their colonies. Although they’re also predatory in nature, black ants aren’t aggressive and they usually don’t view humans as their prey. So as long as you steer clear of their nest location and avoid disturbing them, you’re safe from their bites.
Other Types of Ants That May Bite
There are over a thousand common ant species in the world and there are specific types that are known to have an alarming bite. Here’s how you can identify other ants and their bite symptoms:
Fire ants - These ants have unique black or red-colored bodies with long stingers. They’re notoriously known to have a painful ant sting when they attack you. They also release venom which can cause pain and itching for several days. Their bites can often lead to swelling and leave localized red bumps or marks on the skin.
Pharaoh ants - These types of ants can bite but they aren’t as painful as the fire ants. They rarely use their stingers and pose very little threat to people. However, it’s important to get rid of their infestations since they carry potentially harmful diseases like salmonella.
Pavement ants - Like carpenter ants, they’re also protective and can bite people when they are disturbed. However, their stingers are weak so they won’t cause as much discomfort when they bite.
Acrobat ants - Acrobat ants are known for raising their abdomen whenever they are alarmed. When they’re on the hunt for sweet food, their worker ants may use their stingers to attack other creatures that prey on their food. They can also bite if their nests are attacked. An acrobat ant bite can cause some itching, pain, and minor swelling.
Sugar ants - Sugar ants are docile and they rarely bite humans. Similar to black ants, they don’t have venom and their mandibles can pinch the skin and release the same formic acid.
The best way to avoid getting an ant bite is to carefully navigate areas where you suspect there might be ant activity. You should also avoid disturbing their ant trail and don’t touch or swipe them away with your hands. Likewise, you should also be proactive in keeping your house clean and less attractive for carpenter ants. Here are some tips to prevent a black ant infestation in your home:
Seal any holes, cracks, or small openings which can serve as an ant entry point
Remove any water source and repair leaks to avoid gathering excess moisture
Store all dry and sugar foods in tightly-sealed containers
Keep away any wood sources like firewood, decayed wood, or tree stumps from your home and avoid storing them indoors since carpenter ants like to create their nest inside wooden structures
Make sure all surfaces and counters in the kitchen are free from food debris
Inspect the home regularly for signs of carpenter ant infestation such as wood shavings, long ant trails outdoors, discarded wings on your windowsills
Call a pest control professional to help set up measures for controlling ant population
Solve All Your Ant Infestation Problems With Positive Pest Management
Bites from carpenter ants don’t pose any serious health risks but its symptoms can still be uncomfortable. The only way to assure that your family is safe from black ant bites is to eliminate their infestation before they get worse.
At Positive Pest Management, our team of pest control experts strive to find and eliminate the source of your ant problem as efficiently as possible. We’re committed to providing professional pest control services including inspection and extermination to ensure a safe and pest-free environment. Contact us today to get a free quote or know about our ant infestation services.
About 3% of adults suffer with life threatening pest allergies. People die every year from many pest related illnesses. You may not know it, but when your skin puffs up from a mosquito bite, you actually have obtained a small allergic reaction. It is important to take pest illnesses seriously, because they can ultimately be very dangerous.
Allergies can be from bee stings, mosquito bites, cockroach droppings, saliva, and skin sheddings, and from dust mites. Approximately 5- 7.5% of people have an allergy to bee stings. If someone with an allergy gets stung by a bee, they may experience skin reactions, difficulty breathing, swelling of the tongue and mouth, weak or rapid pulse, dizziness, vomiting or fainting. With mosquito bite allergies, you may experience skin reactions, fever, headaches, nausea and vomiting or fatigue. Coming in contact with cockroach droppings, skin sheddings or saliva can trigger many different symptoms in people with an allergy. Some of these symptoms include coughing, sneezing, sinus infection or wheezing. One of the more severe reactions to cockroaches is asthma which could require immediate medical attention. Lastly, if you have a dust mite allergy, you may experience sneezing, runny nose, red eyes, and an itchy throat.
There are many allergies that can be acquired from insects, but there are also many diseases. Some diseases can be from rodent droppings, mosquitos, ticks, or fleas. There are several diseases you can get from just rodents alone. These diseases are Hantavirus, Pulmonary Syndrome, Hemorrhagic Fever, Lassa Fever, Leptospirosis Lymphocytic, Chorio-meningitis, Omsk Hemorrhagic Fever, Plague, Rat-Bite Fever, Salmonellosis, South American Arenaviruses and Tularemia. The diseases transmitted from mosquitoes are Zika Virus, West Nile virus, Chikungunya virus, dengue, and malaria. The most well known disease you can get from ticks is lyme disease. Flea bites mainly infect dogs and cats, but humans can also get bitten. Diseases from fleas are typhus and plague.
As explained above, pest allergies and diseases can be very dangerous. It is important to take precautions to eliminate the risk of being infected.
Carpenter bees and bumble bees can often be mistaken for each other. They may look similar but there are many differences between the two.
The easiest way to tell if you are looking at a bumble bee or a carpenter bee is the appearance of their abdomen. Bumble bees have yellow and black hair on their body that makes them appear fuzzy. Carpenter bees also have hair, but only on a small area of their bodies. The rest of their body is black and shiny. If you look closely, you might see that their body has a purple or green metallic shine. Another difference between carpenter bees and bumble bees is their size. Carpenter bees are also a bit bigger than bumble bees.
Carpenter bees and bumble bees live in different areas. Bumble bees live in hives with other bumble bees to raise their young. Their hives are relatively small compared to honey bee hives. Their hives may be located in abandoned bird nests, under pieces of wood, or in underground tunnels. On the other hand, carpenter bees create holes and nest in wood. They usually live alone. They also might live in abandoned wood holes that were made by rodents. Most of the time they stay in soft varieties of wood that are unpainted and weathered. Houses with a carpenter bee infestation may be older, with rotting wood.
The third way to differentiate a bumble bee from a carpenter bee is their behavior. Bumble bees are not very aggressive to humans and they will only be aggressive if they feel threatened by you. Male bumble bees cannot sting, only females can. Carpenter bees are more aggressive. If you get close to their nest, they may swoop down on you to protect it. Similar to bumble bees, only female carpenter bees can sting you. Both bumble bee and carpenter bee stings can be dangerous, if you have an allergy.
Insects like cockroaches, earwigs, waterbugs, silverfish, etc. need 3 things to survive; food, water, and shelter. Your pipes and drains provide all of that for them, so there’s a chance they might surprise you at any moment. Luckily, there are ways to kill them and prevent them from coming back. These insects are able to live in your pipes because they provide shelter from predators. Living in the drains provides them with food and water which is the gunk that lines the pipes. Also, the debris in the pipes can provide nesting material for their eggs.
You can start your prevention process by checking the plumbing in your house. If you notice any openings or cracks where the plumbing runs through the floors or the walls, it’s best to seal them up with caulk. Any sweating pipes that you have will create more moisture, so wrap them in insulation as well to avoid those insects. To keep your drains clean, treat them once a month with drain cleaner. These insects are also more active at night, so the best way to keep them from making it out of the drains and overflow drains is to place a cover over it, also known as a drain stopper.
Clean your bathrooms and kitchen regularly, store food in tightly sealed containers, and don’t leave dirty dishes in the sink overnight because then the insects are more likely to crawl out of the pipes and drains if they are drawn by the smell of something in your home. If you notice that you already have insects in your pipes, try and figure out which ones you see because some will carry diseases and others like earwigs, will bite you. Specific pesticides work well on specific insects so that’s why it’s important to know which ones you have in your home. Depending on what insect you have, determines what type of elimination product you will use as well. There are insect baits, gels, powders, and sprays that will get rid of these unwanted house guests. Make sure that whichever product you choose, is kept away from children and pets for their safety. If you are unable to figure out which insect you have or unable to eliminate them on your own, please do not hesitate to call us for professional help.
Rat mites are very small, barely visible parasites that live on rats and feed off of their blood. On the rare occasion that they can’t find rats to infest, they will look to make a meal out of human blood instead and they like to bite you in your sleep. These mites are able to survive for a long period of time without a host. Unfortunately, they can also be a common house invading species.
Rat mites can cause dermatitis when they bite your skin, which is similar to the bites that bedbugs give. To know whether you have rat mites or bedbugs, you should use sticky traps to capture some and then have what you caught inspected by a pest control specialist. They will know what it is and how to deal with getting rid of them. Having rat mites unfortunately means you have rats, so it’s important that you find the rats nest and get rid of it. The only way to do this is to have an exterminator come in and clear out their disease-ridden home. In finding the rats home, you must then seal up all entry points in which they may have entered your home. After doing all of this, it’s best to disinfect your home with a pest control spray or have an exterminator take care of it for you, which is most likely the better and safer option.
The American cockroach, also known as the water bug is one of the most common household pests. This bug can efficiently and quickly infest an area in your home, making it difficult to get rid of. In the northern states, the American cockroach is usually found to take shelter in sewers and drains, while in the southern states, they are more likely to be seen outdoors. They enjoy moist and wet locations. The cockroach can range from 1 to 3 inches long and they are usually a light brown or reddish brown color with a yellow band on their head. They are shaped like an oval with 6 six legs and 2 antennas. This type of cockroach can move very quickly and can fly as well, but for the most part you will find them in outdoor locations.
They like damp, warm places in gardens like under mulch and other types of piles. If the temperature changes or they run out of food, they will move inside to the nearest building no matter what it is. The cockroaches will seek out wet or food filled areas to survive; this includes basements, pipes, holes in a wall, drains, and under major appliances. They can feed on any organic material from crumbs and leftover human food to fungi and leaves.
The female American cockroach can lay 16-32 eggs a week for about 10 months straight, which can cause large, quick infestations. It can take 4 to 6 months for the egg to become an adult, so if you find some adult cockroaches in your home, that means there are a lot more where that came from.
Signs of American cockroaches in your home include odor, because when in a group, they give off a musty and wet smell and the sight of egg casings after they hatch is a sign as well. Also, droppings are sign because they are always eating and then always disposing their waste; leaving little brown and reddish droplets everywhere. Of course the most obvious sign is the on-sight visual because once you see one indoors, that means there are definitely more to look out for. The best way to start getting rid of the cockroaches is to clean the living spaces they like, including sinks, counters, appliances, cabinets, and drains. Check the entryways and foundations for holes or cracks because this is also how they can enter your home. You should seal up or caulk these areas and use gel repellents to prevent entry of the cockroaches in the future. To get rid of an infestation, baits, pesticides, and traps are good to use, but may be a slow process because of the large amount of these pests and how well they are able to survive.
Unfortunately, American cockroaches also can cause health problems because they are known to be transmitters of bacteria including Salmonella and E. coli. Their secretion gives off an odor that can also cause problems for people with asthma and allergies. Consult a professional exterminator to help with your cockroach problem!
Fruit flies are serious contaminators of food along with being an annoying pest to have as well. Other names for them are banana flies, vinegar flies, sour flies, pomace flies, and vinegar gnats. The adult fruit flies may be a dull yellow color, a brownish yellow, or a brownish black color, and are smaller than half an inch long. The larvae are dirty white, maggot shaped, and very small as well. You may see large populations of fruit flies appear quickly in hotels, cafeterias, restaurants, and other food establishments too. Frequently invaded structures or areas also include truck crop acreages, the vicinity of orchards, vineyards, and more. These fruit flies are considered to be the biggest pest in food processing plants, including dehydrators, pickle plants, wineries, and canneries. They cause the highest percentage of contamination of fruit products, which is also cited as a contaminating agent in the reports of food seizures. The reports were made by the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA).
Female fruit flies can lay up to 500 eggs at a time and will do so on rotting fruits and vegetables. The larvae will feed on fungi growing in infested material and yeast organisms. Soon, they will turn their food into a semi liquid-like “mess" which can help when trying to find the breeding site. As the larvae become full grown, they leave the food material for dryer areas. In the summer, it can take 8-10 days for an egg to become an adult and mating then takes place immediately. This means that egg laying can start all over again in just 24 hours from becoming an adult.
To control the fruit flies from taking over your fruits and vegetables, in the warmer seasons you should screen all openings to the outside with a mesh screen or netting. Food like fruit salads, jams, jellies, pickles, fruit juices, etc., or cut/spoiling fruits and vegetables should not be left exposed in open containers. It is best not to have large quantities of raw fruits and vegetables like potatoes and onions exposed as they can attract a fruit fly infestation. It’s also good to always check the big bags of food because one rotten vegetable could be at the bottom of the bag and that one vegetable would be enough to support an infestation. Keep exposed food in cold storage if possible, to slow down the development of larval fruit flies. Any overripe fruit or vegetable that you may have, should be removed to avoid recurrence of the fruit flies. The breeding areas can be difficult to locate sometimes, including places like an apple accidentally being kicked under shelves of a pantry, a forgotten potato in a storage bin, or improperly cleaned garbage cans or disposals. Believe it or not, breeding areas have also been found to be beer cans, soft drinks, or milk containers with remaining liquid in the bottom. Rags and uncleaned mops can also serve as a breeding site for fruit flies if they were used clean up any drink or food. Basically any food materials found under counters, baseboards, in the cracks around drainboards, or cracks around sinks can also be a way for the flies to start an infestation. A way to get rid of a lingering flies would be to use a pesticide aerosol spray or even a fly swatter. You can also construct a trap by creating a paper funnel, placing it into a jar with some cider vinegar bait and this will attract the adult flies.
There are 3 types of carpet beetles that can be found in your home and they are the varied carpet beetle, the furniture carpet beetle, and the black carpet beetle.
The adult varied carpet beetle is extremely tiny and is black with a brown, white, and dark yellow pattern of scales on its wing covers. As they get older, the wings will start to appear black or brown. In the outdoors, the female varied carpet beetles look for wasp, birds, or bees nests and spider webs to lay their eggs. The webs and nests serve as larval food because they contain beeswax, dead insects, pollen, feathers, or other debris. Being indoors, the beetles lay their eggs on or near woolen goods, furs, wool carpets/rugs, animal horns/skins, stuffed animals, whalebone, silk, furs, leather book bindings, feathers, dried plant products, hair, and other materials that can serve as larval food for them. Also, the adult beetles will most likely appear in the spring or early summer, and indoors, you can find them near windows. The mature larvae get to be a little bit longer than adults and are covered in dense tufts of hair. They can be recognizable from other carpet beetles because they have light and dark brown stripes and they are narrower in the front and broader in the rear. Varied carpet beetles usually lay 40 eggs at a time and female adults can live up to 6 weeks and the male adults can live up to 4 weeks.
Furniture carpet beetles are a little bit rounder and bigger than the varied carpet beetle. The markings may vary on the adults, but it has black spots that are scattered with white and dark yellow/orange scales on its wing covers. As the beetle gets older, its scales may wear off causing it to look black with a white underside. The larvae are white at first but then turn dark red or brown as they get older. Also, this larvae will feed on the same type of things as a varied carpet beetle larvae. Furniture carpet beetles will lay about 60 eggs and the adults can live to up to 8 weeks.
Black carpet beetles are distinctly different from the other 2 types of beetles because of the size. They are a little bit bigger, but still less than an inch long and they are shiny black with dark brown legs. The larvae can appear as smooth, shiny, and short with stiff hairs covering the body. Their body ends in a tuft in long hairs as well. In arid areas like California, this beetle is more of a serious pest problem for stored products like flours, grains, and cereals, rather than a pest for fabrics. The black carpet beetle will typically lay 90 eggs and the adults can live up to 8 weeks.
Materials that Moths eat:
They are attracted to natural fibers and that includes things anywhere in your home, not just limited to your wardrobe. Clothes moth larvae do damage by feeding on cashmere, cotton, human/animal hair, wool, and silk. These natural fibers have keratin which is a specific protein that the larvae convert into useful nutrients. Seagrass is also a popular natural material used for flooring that clothes moths love. Understanding what they eat will help you to formulate a clothes moth eradication plan.
Where to check for Clothes Moths:
Inspect each room in your house and look for items that contain nature fibers. Clothes moths like to lay their eggs in dark protected locations that are unlikely to be disturbed. For example, it is best to inspect the rugs and wool carpets by lifting them up and checking the undersides for signs of webbing. The areas that would be good to check are the carpeting under and behind furniture, under beds, and behind wardrobes because those are dark areas. Check the backs of curtains facing the wall and near the floor where it is the darkest. Also, check at the top of the curtains in between the pleats because the moths can hide in there as well. If you have upholstered furniture with horsehair and canvas, the moths like to feed on that too. There can be signs of damage in cat and dogs beds, so getting machine washable bedding for your pets would be ideal. Any other soft furnishings like feather filled cushions or pillows should also be checked for moths. Teddy bears and vintage toys that are less likely to be played with are also good hiding spots for clothes moths because they contain natural fibers and will probably have toddler drool on them. Clothes moth larvae don't drink anything, so they get their moisture from clothing that gets sweaty like in the underarm area and the crotch areas of trousers and suits.
Termite inspections are very important to do in a new house or even just every so often. Some signs that suggest you might have termites in your house include; buckling in your wood floors, discolored drywall, damaged/rotted wood, wood with visible holes in it, chipped or bubbling paint which can be mistaken for water damage, loose flooring, and the most obvious would be clusters of termite wings near doors and windows. To prepare for termite inspections, you should move items away from storage areas like attics and garages. Removing storage below sinks is helpful as well.
The termite inspector will look for damaged or hollow wood, access points for termites, termite droppings or mud tubes, and cracks in the foundation or any other damage in the houses’ structure. Once the inspection is done, recommendations for termite treatment and protection will be provided. The types of termites you can have in your home are Dampwood termites that infest wood with high moisture content, Subterranean termites that build mud tubes, and Drywood termites that infest areas of dead or dry wood. Different types of treatment methods for termites include doing a structural fumigation, placing bait stations throughout the house, and termite insecticide.
To prevent termites from coming back in the future, you can cover openings like vents outside of your house with steel mesh that termites can’t get through, repair plumbing leaks, point sprinkler heads away from the foundation to avoid moisture buildup, and use termite-resistant wood on structure like porches and decks. No matter where you live, termites can be a problem that you don’t know about until it’s too late. To lower the risk of bad infestations and damage, having yearly termite inspections is a good thing to do, even if there are no signs of termite activity.
Earwigs are bugs that feed on algae, mosses, fungi, lichens, spiders and mites, sometimes aphids, and other insects. They will eat the insects dead or alive. Earwigs can also feed on living plants, meaning they can live in greenhouses and on some crops like forages, fruits, vegetables, field plants, and ornamentals. This means they could cause a lot of problems for gardeners. They have 3 body parts, 6 legs, 2 antennae, and a set of pincers on the end of its abdomen. Even though earwigs don’t bite, they can pinch, but it’s known not to be painful. Earwigs can lay up to 80 eggs at a time and once they have hatched, they become adults in just about 70 days. Their lifespan is about a year. So if you see one, just know that there might be more.
For survival, earwigs need moisture, so low spots around the foundation of your house, leaky faucets, and downspouts are good spots for them to hide in. To reduce the population of earwigs your home, it’s a good idea to try and get rid of damp conditions in crawl spaces under the house and damp conditions around air-conditioning units. Earwigs inside of your home can be found in kitchens, basements, potted plants, and laundry rooms as well. Depending on how you landscape, you might have to change the way it’s being done so that water will instead flow away from the foundation of the house. Other ways to prevent earwigs in your house or in your plants is to clean up wood that may be rotting around your property and keeping shrubs and plants that you have, trimmed to reduce hiding places during the daytime. A barrier you can use against earwigs and other pests is having ornamental stones or gravel, and of course applying a granular pesticide all around the outside foundation walls will give some prevention.
If you don’t know what a millipede looks like, the nickname “thousand leggers” might ring a bell. They will usually curl up into a tight curve like a “C” shape and not move if touched. They live outdoors for the most part, but are attracted to cool, moist, dark places and might come indoors if there is an excessive drought or heavy rains. There is usually a large amount of them that live together, so seeing a lot at one time shouldn't be alarming. Millipedes will leave very dry or very wet outdoor conditions to then find their way into your house through cracks in wall vents and windows. They like to live in first floor rooms and basements. Even though millipedes do not bite people or cause damage to anything in your home, their presence can be very annoying.
To get rid of millipedes, it is best to try and eliminate damp, dark, moist places in your home which is where they would reproduce and feed. Millipede habitats outside could be piles of grass clippings, wet mulch, compost piles, and accumulations of leaves. Raking leaves and exposing the soil surrounding the foundation of the house to give it sunlight, will help eliminate millipedes living on your property. To get rid of entry areas for millipedes, you can repair openings and cracks found in door/window frames and foundation walls. You can also prevent an infestation by treating the outside perimeter of your house with a barrier of liquid pesticides that label millipedes as a target. While applying the pesticide, make sure you put enough liquid so that it soaks through any mulch or soil you have surrounding your house and repeat weekly if needed.
Silverfish are very unappealing bugs, like most are. They are wingless insects that are covered with silver scales and have 3 antennae-like things called bristle tails that come out of the end of their abdomen. Silverfish are only a half inch long and are very fast insects. They like to live in moist and warm spots, hiding in tight cracks. You can find them anywhere on your house like under roof shingles and in your house as well. Silverfish love the glue on wallpaper and books, and they love the sizing on clothing. To get to the paste in the wallpaper, they are known to eat irregular shaped holes. People often mistakenly think they have clothes moths because of the small holes in the fabrics like linen, silk, and cotton, but it can actually be silverfish.
An easy start to eliminating the silverfish is to first find the room they are infesting, turn down the temperature and reduce the humidity. You can reduce the humidity by using a dehumidifier, removing standing water, fixing water leaks, and by ventilating attics and closed rooms. If you want to speed up the elimination process, you can apply insecticide products in wall voids and other hiding places like attic insulation. Pest control products you can use for silverfish are Drione Dust to get rid of moisture and Intice Granular Bait. Other alternatives can be 20 Mule Team Borax, baby powder, or plaster mix on a moist rag. There are also silverfish packets that you can buy that will attract them and kill them. You can place the packets in closets and under rugs.
Silverfish are able to bite, but if they bite a human they are unaware of it. Their bites do more damage to books and clothing. Silverfish lay up to 50 eggs at a time, taking several weeks to hatch which is considered slow reproduction. They can live one year without a food source and up to eight years in lifespan. Seeing a lot of silverfish means they have been in your house for quite some time. Silverfish are unable to climb up flat surfaces, so they are often found in sink basins or bathtubs. This is because they search for moisture. Silverfish can be accidentally brought into homes through furniture or old cardboard boxes. It’s best to examine these things before being brought inside. Indoors, they can be found near humid, dark places like closets, bookshelves, attics, and small spaces in between walls. If you find silverfish outside, they will most likely be found under tree bark, or in birds’ nests.
Keeping darker areas and inhabited areas of your house clutter free is the best way to prevent a silverfish infestation. Food sources for them are the glue on cardboard boxes and the glue on book bindings. You can take away potential hiding places by sealing up cracks and crevices in the attic or basement with a non-organic caulk. Adding more light to darkened areas and repairing leaking plumbing to eliminate water will also drive silverfish away for good.
Although no one really likes bugs, centipedes are a beneficial insect because they feed on other pests like crickets and cockroaches. They also will sometimes feed on bats, small birds, and reptiles depending on the size of the centipede. Centipedes attack their prey by wrapping their back legs around the victim and then attacking it with its 2 front legs that have poisonous pincers. These insects are not dangerous to humans, but they do have venom in their pincers that can give a painful bite. Humans who have been bitten by small centipedes have said that it feels like a bee sting, but the larger centipedes are said to have a more painful bite. To reduce the swelling and pain of a centipede bite, you should apply ice to it.
Centipedes need moist environments to survive. They are hunters that search indoors for food, but will die soon if they don’t go back to the outdoors. As you’re probably wondering, there are indoor and outdoor centipedes. The indoor centipedes have longer legs than the outdoor centipedes, but are shorter in length being around one or two inches long. Their back legs are very long and have long antennae on their head. Centipedes will move very quickly and usually surprise people when they're not expecting it. Reducing moisture from around the house is your best way to prevent centipedes from coming in. It’s best to make sure that your gutters are not clogged and are moving water away from your house. It’s also good to remove wet mulch and any leaf piles that are surrounding the house and allowing the soil to dry out. Centipedes have flat bodies making it easy for them to get into the house through small cracks, so it’s a good idea to seal up the cracks around the foundation of your house. If doing this is still not efficient, you can use a barrier pesticide all around the outside of your house. A liquid treatment you can use to prevent centipedes from coming in is Talstar Granules or you can use diatomaceous earth. Applying these pesticides will also help to keep out the other insects out of the house that centipedes like to feed on.
Centipedes have the ability to detach some legs if needed to help them escape from predators, but cannot grow those legs back. Indoor centipedes also known as house centipedes, will feed on bed bugs, silverfish, cockroaches, termites, spiders and other pests. You can find a centipede in almost any room in the house, but they are often seen in bathrooms and basements. When centipedes are outside, they like to live under large rocks and other damp/cool places like stacks of wood and compost piles.
If you are seeing a lot of centipedes in your house, it’s a good idea to search for infestations of the other insects that they feed on like attic flies, lady beetles, spider beetles, cockroaches, boxelder bugs, and other insects. With that being said, controlling other insects is your way to eliminating the unwanted centipedes.
Spider beetles are small beetles belonging to the family Anobiidae. There are three different spider beetles that we refer to.
They are the American spider beetle, the white marked spider beetle, and the smooth spider beetle. These pests look somewhat like small spiders (or large mites) due to their long legs and relatively large, rounded abdomens.
The American spider beetle for starters, measures from 1.5 to 3.5 millimeters in length and has a dark reddish-brown to black, shiny, globular abdomen.
The head, thorax, legs, and antennae are covered with hairs that are a pale yellow to cream color.
Further, the white marked spider beetle adult measures from 2 to 4.3 millimeters long and are light brown in color with patches of white hairs on the wing covers. Oftentimes, the white patches are rubbed off of older beetles.
Males have a thinner and a more extended abdomen than the females. The smooth spider beetle adult is similar in shape and color and often compared to the American spider beetle. However, the head, thorax, legs, and antennae are the same color as the abdomen.
This species, more than the other spider beetles, resembles a large, reddish mite. The larvae of all three species of beetles are found “C” shaped and cream in color with light brown heads. The length depends on the age of the larvae but are capable of reaching 3.5 to 4 millimeters.
The three different spider beetles have similar life histories and have been reported to feed and reproduce on a wide variety of foodstuffs, including almonds, animal skins, beans, books, bones, brushes, cacao, cereals, chocolate powder, corn meal, dates, dead insects and insect collections, dried fruits, dried mushrooms, dried soup, drugs derived from powdered leaves, excrement (dried), feathers, figs, fish meal, flour, ginger, grains, hair, herbarium specimens, hops, leather, maize, nutmeg, old wood in houses, paprika, rye bread, rye, seeds, silk, stuffed birds, textile fabrics, various spices, wheat, and wool. Spider beetles often emerge at night and gravitate toward dark locations.
These pests prefer damp areas and enjoy feeding on spoiled food. They can be found within walls and attics, in the cracks of wooden floors in granaries, bakeries, and in the nests of birds and rodents. They have been known to be active at temperatures below freezing and will have from one to two generations per year depending on the ambient temperature and relative humidity.
To control an infestation of spider beetles you must first identify and eliminate all infested foodstuff. In many ways, this is similar to the control of all stored-product pests, but is made exceedingly difficult because of the beetles’ ability to feed on so many different items from food found in your pantry to a rodent nest under the floor, or bat droppings in the attic space, or from dead overwintering insects trapped within an exterior wall.
If you are having a problem locating the food source for the infestation, place monitors (sticky traps) in the vicinity where beetles were seen. After beetles are captured on traps within one area, place more traps within that area until the infestation is located.
When all else fails, be sure to call a pest control professional who can help you identify and eliminate any pest infestation quickly and safely.
The only cities in the United States that have more problems with rats are Los Angeles and Chicago. New York, like Chicago, has a problem that Los Angeles does not have. New York experiences all four seasons. We are now in the coldest part of the winter, with overnight temperatures that reach below freezing. It is due to this cold weather that the winter becomes the worst time of the year for rats and other rodents.
Winter is a Busy Time for Rodents
While pests such as ants and mosquitos are dormant this time of year, rats are still out there, and just like the rest of us, they are cold. Rats are not only looking for a warm place to stay, they are also scavenging for food, and if they can find a place that can satisfy both basic needs, they will make themselves at home. Then you have real problems.
When it comes to rats and businesses, there is the obvious problem of customers being turned off and leaving bad reviews. However, the problems go far beyond bad reviews. There are issues of rats carrying diseases, the damage that they can cause, and the fact that once you have rats, they will reproduce quickly and even attract more rats from the outside.
Health Issues
The most common disease carried by rats is Hantavirus, which can be passed easily through rodent excrement. Hantavirus is a serious respiratory disease that can be fatal, especially when the person is already dealing with respiratory issues. Other diseases that can be spread to humans and animals include leptospirosis, salmonellosis, rat-bite fever, and even the plague. Yes, THE plague.
Destruction to Buildings
Once rats get into a building, they are going to get into every area of the place, looking for food and places to nest and reproduce. If they get into a wall by gnawing through wood or drywall, they will chew through wiring, creating a fire hazard, ductwork and practically anything else that gets in their way. All the while they are eating and excreting waste.
Reproducing and Attracting More Rats
Rats breed and reproduce very easily. They reach sexual maturity at five weeks of age, and they come into heat every 4 or 5 days. After a gestation period of around 22 days, rats can have a litter of anywhere from 6 to 13 babies. Short incubation periods and large litters mean that once you have a couple of rats in your building, left unfound and untended, the number of rats grows very quickly.
The excrement we mentioned a couple of times has a very strong odor and is a sign for other rats that a haven with food and shelter has been found.
Call Positive Pest Management
Positive Pest Management only employees’ professional technicians that know the business of eradicating and excluding rats from any building, whether it is residential, commercial or industrial.
Positive Pest Management provides the highest quality Rodent Control and Exterminating Services in New York City. We service residential and commercial customers in Manhattan, Queens, Brooklyn, and the Bronx.
Positive Pest has the experience and skill to handle any extermination situation related to rats or mice. Typically, these pests are controlled with traps, baits, and rodent exclusion work, which helps to reduce places where they can harbor.
Positive Pest Management is operated by Benett Pearlman, who is a former 10-year Regional Director of the New York State Pest Management Association. Positive Pest Management specializes in commercial, residential, and industrial properties. We’re in the trenches every day, troubleshooting on site, and committed to permanently solving all your rodent problems efficiently and cost-effectively.
Please feel free to contact us whenever the need arises.
The most common cockroaches that are found in households are the German cockroach.
Before you get the pleasure to see one running across your kitchen counter, the German cockroach will go through three life stages, the egg, nymph, and the adult.
On average a roach’s life span is between 100 and 200 days. The female cockroach has the ability to produce on average 400 eggs at a time. These pests produce very quickly.
The female only needs to mate one time to produce her young. Generally, the female will produce 4 to 6 egg cases during her life span. Inside the female’s eggs, referred to as the ootheca contain about 35 eggs and are brown in color.
They are 7mm long and 2mm wide. She carries her ootheca on her abdomen until it is time to hatch. Afterwards, she then seeks out a safe place behind your walls for her bundles of joy to grow to maturity! Nymphs are what emerge from the ootheca.
Shortly, these little pests darken in color becoming what we usually recognize as dark brown or black cockroaches. These cockroaches at this stage referred to as nymphs are wingless and are too premature to reproduce. These nymphs can develop within 100 days.
The adult cockroaches are about 15 mm in length and have wings. They rarely fly; they seem to prefer to run. The adult can be easily recognized by their brown or tan coloration with two black horizontal stripes located on the pronotum right behind the head.
Depending on conditions, the average time for development from egg to adult is usually between 54 to 215 days, with an average time of 100 days.
These pests are capable of living outdoors, however they seem to prefer to live indoors where it is warmer and more humid. They are usually found gravitating toward kitchens and bathrooms where food and moisture is available.
One way German cockroaches can enter your home is through hitch hiking a ride in bags, boxes, or card board containers that is brought into the home. These pests have the ability to move between units that share plumbing and pipes throughout multiunit apartment buildings.
German cockroaches are scavengers and live off of mostly anything such as toothpaste, soap, and even the bindings of books. These survivors can live off of the smallest crumbs left behind during cleaning.
Some signs that your home may have a German cockroach infestation are finding small, dark, pepper like droppings often found in drawers and on counter tops.
Fecal staining appears like dark spears and raised often found in the corners of the rooms, along the tops of doors, in small cracks and openings into walls.
Further, another sign of infestation is finding empty egg cases close by where females would be depositing their eggs. In addition, German cockroaches secrete a number of odorous compounds. With an increase in population, comes a mild musty odor.
These pests are known to carry and transmit a number of pathogens, including E coli, Salmonella and Typhus. Studies have shown that in those areas where there is an increase in German cockroaches, children are linked to be directly affected with asthma.
If you find yourself struggling with getting rid of these pests on your own because their populations tend to grow rapidly within a human habitat, your pest control provider is better equipped to handling the job by using a professional treatment.
Positive Pest Management Exterminators provide the removal and prevention of termites and the damage they cause. No matter how beautiful and pest free your home may appear, proper pest control must be applied and maintained to prevent an infestation.
Termites may be small but the damage they cause is definitely not. These dangerous pests work silently and can almost go unnoticed until the damage they cause becomes apparent. This means that termites might be living and thriving in your home while you remain totally clueless, as the value to your home takes a major blow.
The reason why termites gravitate into houses is because all houses provide the kind of food termites thrive on such as cellulose-based plant material. Regardless of the construction type of the house, termites will always find a way to get to the cellulose food. Termites feed on dead plants and trees and also the dead parts of living trees. In other words, termites feed on dead wood. This is why they will be drawn to your furniture, books, shelves and even your house’s foundation.
Termites may all appear the same, however there are different types of termites that could be working on invading your home. Let’s briefly take a look at them.
Firstly, the subterranean termites live in colonies below the ground. These pests build a network of tunnels to reach above-ground sources of food. These termites depend on moisture for survival. The subterranean termites have a queen that lays thousands of eggs in its lifetime.
The dry wood termites on the other hand are most likely found in your attic wood. They create colonies in wood and they thrive on very little moisture.
Damp wood termites are found in damp and decaying wood on the soil where they build colonies. You can tell that damp wood termites have worked on wood if it looks smooth and cleaned out.
And lastly we have Formosan termites. These little guys are referred to as introduced subterranean termites because they nest in the soil. These pests will invade structures from the soil through wood or the mud tubes that they build. The difference between Formosan termites and their subterranean counterparts is that they are able to build structures that retain moisture. Therefore, they don’t need to return to the soil for moisture.
Positive Pest Management Exterminators have the professional expertise needed to handle termite infestations of any kind. They are used to dealing with infestations and are therefore unlikely to miss any spots that could leave your home damaged causing a loss of property value later on. However, if you would like to give it a try on your own, here are a few tips.
There are both natural and chemical ways to get rid of termites. If you prefer the natural route, you need to get your hands on beneficial nematodes. Beneficial nematodes are unsegmented worms that are used to kill garden pests such as termites. These unsegmented worms burrow into hosts, in this case termite larvae, causing the death of their hosts.
UV light harms these worms, be sure to place them in the garden after sunset or before sunrise. Another natural way to rid your home of these pests is by using a cardboard trap. Cardboard contains cellulose which as earlier mentioned is what termites feed on. In order to set the trap for the termites, you need to spray the cardboard so that the smell of the cellulose becomes more distinct. You should then place the cardboard trap near a termite-infested area. The termites will be attracted to the cardboard giving you the chance to catch them and burn them off.
Further, be sure to rid the surroundings of your home of damp wood and clear any bushes as this exposes the termites to sunlight which kills them. Water leaks in your house should also be addressed as this will eventually attract termites.
Boric acid is another way you can rid your home of termites. Boric acid is the main ingredient found in many termite insecticides that you buy from the store. Boric acid kills termites by shutting down their nervous systems and dehydrating them. Also, create bait stations by spraying wood with boric acid and then placing it in different parts where you think termites might be. Be sure to check these bait stations regularly and replenish the boric acid as required.
Orange oil is another method for eliminating dry wood termites. Orange oil is an extract that is gotten from orange peels. In order for it to work, be sure to drill holes into the infested wood and pour in the orange oil through the holes. Some people are allergic to orange oil so it should be used with care. Orange oil kills the termites through direct contact or by starving them to death as it deters feeding.
Heat fumigation is another effective way of killing termites. These pests will die when at temperatures of above 120F for 35 minutes or more. You might want to do this with the help of a professional such as Positive Pest Management Exterminators.
Chemical methods of ridding your home of termites include using arsenic dust which is very effective as it kills all members of the colony even if only a few come into contact with it. This is because through their interactions, termites are passing on the arsenic trioxide to the others. Termites who feed on the victims of the arsenic dust also die. This method might be limited to licensed professionals depending on your state of residence. For instant results, many recommend using Permethrin dust.
A good alternative to spot treatment is electrical shock. 90,000 volts of power are used to electrocute drywood termite colonies. For this, you need to use an Electro-Gun.
If you find yourself at the point you are turning to chemical methods for ridding your home of these pests, you might want to call a pest control professional.
Positive Pest Control provides service for the safe control and removal of bed bugs. Bed bugs are one of the most difficult pest problems to eradicate quickly. By far, the best solution for bed bugs is to hire a pest control company with experience successfully controlling bed bugs. Unfortunately, this can be expensive and beyond the means of many people.
If you feel you cannot afford to hire a professional, and want to attempt do-it-yourself bed bug control, there are some things you can do. With hard work, you have a chance of getting rid of bed bugs in your home.
If you live in an apartment, it’s best to notify the property manager of the infestation. A coordinated bed bug control effort using a pest control professional is generally needed in such situations. Positive Pest Control provides service throughout New York providing a safe and affordable removal of any bed bug infestation.
Bed bugs usually travel from apartment to apartment. If one apartment is infested, it is safe to assume that the adjoining units are infested as well unless shown otherwise through inspection or monitoring. Simply asking tenants whether they have bed bugs is not enough.
Pesticides alone are not the answer to bed bugs. Most of the commonly used pesticides today, including professional products and consumer products advertised for control of bed bugs, are limited in controlling these pests. Pesticides must be used with care for safety and with attention to proper application to work well.
Aerosol “bug bombs” or “fumigators” are also mostly ineffective in eliminating bed bugs. Aerosol insecticides mainly kill insects that are exposed, and out of their hiding places, not those hidden behind baseboards, in cracks and crevices of the bed, under carpet edging and in walls.
The first step at doing it yourself is to determine which rooms are infested. Bedrooms are usually the focused locations for bed bugs; however, any room where people sleep in the home may provide shelter for bed bugs.
Living rooms with sofas and sofa beds are the next most common sites for bed bugs. Usually, an infestation starts in one room and spreads slowly to other places where people sleep. The faster you find and treat bed bugs, the easier it will be to eradicate the problem.
Further, it is generally unnecessary to throw away beds or bedding. It is very expensive to replace bedding, and chances are that any new mattresses, box springs or beds you bring into the home will quickly become re-infested. The money used to replace a bed or mattress might better be spent on hiring a pest control professional.
Try creating a safe place to sleep because staying in your own bed will reduce the risk of bed bugs of spreading throughout your home. If you move to another room to sleep, the bed bugs will eventually follow. Then you’ll have bed bugs in multiple rooms.
To create a safe place to sleep, first try Stripping and vacuuming the mattresses and box springs, and encasing them. Be sure to double bag your bedding and wash it in hot water and dry for at least 30 minutes. Be sure to dispose of the bag after putting bedding into the washer to prevent any live bugs from spreading throughout your home.
Afterwards, vacuum suspected bed bugs from the bed, then take your vacuum cleaner outdoors and remove and discard the bag. In addition, buy a quality set of bed-bug-proof encasements for your mattresses and box springs. Bed bug-proof encasements are fabric sacks into which you slide your mattress or your box spring. The zippers on bed bug encasements are designed to be tight enough to prevent even the smallest life stages of the bed bugs from escaping.
In addition, bed bug-proof encasements are designed to prevent bed bugs from biting you through the encasement. A good encasement will trap all bed bugs in the mattress and box spring inside, and will be smooth on the outside, providing few places for bed bugs to hide.
Usually 70% of all bed bugs in the typical infestation are located on the mattress, box spring and bed frame. After you have encased the mattress and box spring and taken care of that problem; you have to make sure that your bed frame is bed bug free. Vacuuming alone won’t do this. Vacuuming can remove many bed bug adults and nymphs, but will not remove eggs very well. For this job you’ll need insecticide sprays and possibly dusts to treat every crevice and void in your bed.
Remember that insecticides can be dangerous when directions are not followed properly. Be sure to read the whole label before spraying or dusting. The label directions are the law and failure to follow the label not only puts you and your family at risk, it is against the law. Homemade sprays, by the way, are usually less safe than commercial insecticides. Stick with the legal stuff.
If you are lucky enough to catch an infestation early you may not need to do anything more than treat and isolate your bed. But if an infestation has spread to other parts of the home, bed isolation may not be good enough. Here is where one of Positive Pest Control’s professionals may be needed. We will work hard to eradicate your pest problem fast and safely.
As many of you know, bedbugs have made a creepy crawling comeback in New York City and surrounding areas. The bedbug epidemic is impacting homes, retail stores, schools, and more. If you have nearly microscopic blood spots on your sheet or mattresses, wake up with tiny red bumps, and/or notice dark clusters near your mattress seams, call a professional exterminator immediately.
Only a licensed technician can ensure that all traces of bedbugs, at all stages of their lifecycle, are effectively removed from your home. If you are lucky enough to not have encountered bedbugs, I am sure you are dying to know how to protect yourself, your family, and your home.
Bedbug prevention can be very difficult due to their almost undetectable size and tendency to hitchhike rides on your clothing, luggage, and furniture. The following precautions are the first step you can take in keeping your home bedbug free.
1)Be extremely cautious when picking up furniture that has been left on the sidewalk or curb.
Bedbugs are nomadic in nature and are known to dorm in various types of furniture, NOT just on or in mattresses! It is very common to find bedbugs tightly packed into dark screw holes and corners on chairs, tables, dressers, and on many other household furnishings. These nocturnal pests are drawn to dark sheltered areas and therefore they will commonly hide in your mattress or box spring; providing them with easy access to their food host…you!
Before picking up furniture that has been left on the curb be sure to examine it thoroughly for dark spots or blood/fecal stains. Also, check any small dark corners or seams where the bedbugs may be hiding.
2) When traveling and/or staying at hotels, know what to look for and how to keep your luggage and clothing safe.
Patrons come and go from hotels all day, everyday. Yea sure, housekeeping does their best to make sure the rooms are clean and the sheets are washed. But how sure can you be that not a single little bedbug dropped from that sheet and took shelter in the mattress?
Prior to going on vacation, be sure to check online reviews regarding your hotel! There are also many bedbug registries where you can check to find out if the hotel you are staying at has any reported bedbug incidences or infestations. Once you arrive be sure to check your bed before placing your luggage on it. You should check the mattress seams along with the box spring. Also, check the sheets for tiny pepper like spots (these are blood and fecal stains that are left behind by feeding bedbugs).
If you have found bedbugs in your hotel room, immediately report it to the front desk and request a room change that is on a different side or floor of the hotel. If one room has been infested it is likely that neighboring rooms may have had some stragglers wander over.
Now don’t forget, it is possible that you picked up a bedbug along the way and didn’t realize it. Therefore, when you come home from your travels it is necessary to take precautions as well. I would recommend that you thoroughly check your luggage and wash all clothing at high temperatures. Extremely high temperatures have proven to be the most effective way to eliminate bedbugs, at all stages of their life cycle.
3) If for any reason you fear that you were in a location where you may have been exposed to bedbugs, remove your clothing and have it dry cleaned or washed at very high temperatures.
Immediately seal your clothing in tightly fastened bags when transporting them from room to room. You can wash the clothes with hot water and dry them at a very high temperature in order to ensure that any possible hitchhikers are eliminated. Bedbugs cannot survive temperatures of 120 degrees Fahrenheit or above; even eggs will die at these temperatures.
4) Seal off mattresses and box springs with bedbug mattress covers. You will likely be able to purchase these covers through your licensed exterminator.
By taking the initiative to cover your mattresses, you can ensure that bedbugs will not be able to reside closely to their desired host. Without humans to feed on the bedbugs will search for an alternate host or hitchhike a ride elsewhere. However, it is important to note that bedbugs can live for extended periods of time without a host. Another benefit of having a mattress cover is that any live bugs or eggs currently residing in the mattress will eventually die, as they have no where to flee to.
These are just a few steps you can take in keeping your home bedbug free. For more information on bedbugs, bedbug removal/elimination, keeping your home safe, and environmental-friendly heat treatment visit our website or give us a call.
Fleas have been around for millions of years sucking the blood of animals and humans. A flea’s life cycle has several stages that undergo a complete metamorphosis. The stages consist of the egg, larval, pupal and the adult. The length in time that each stage takes largely depends on environmental conditions.
Fleas usually lay between four to eight eggs after a meal. Flea eggs can hatch into larva within 12 days on average. The larvae are about 3 to 5.2 mm long and are almost transparent white in color. This stage usually lasts between four to 18 days; where the larvae spin silken cocoons and enter the pupal stage. The pupal stage may be complete within three days or it can last up to a year depending on environmental conditions.
The female lays her eggs, larvae hatch from the eggs that has fallen off an animal or host. Once away from the host, the larvae needs to find a shady area and seeks out cracks in the floor, carpets, in and under furniture to hide until maturity. Flea larvae depend upon temperature; they will not survive in humidity less than 45 to 50 percent or temperatures higher than 95 degrees Fahrenheit.
Larvae are about three to five mm long, and have no eyes or legs. Their body is maggot like and whitish. Eventually, the larvae turn darker as it feeds off the feces of adult fleas. Also, larvae will feed off of dead skin, dead insects, and feathers. Unlike adult fleas, larvae do not feed off of blood directly from a host. After the larvae stage, which consists on average between four to 18 days they spin a silken cocoon before entering into the pupal stage. One way to help get rid of fleas from your home is to vacuum frequently to remove and kill larvae.
Adults immediately begin searching for food after emerging from the pupal stage. Females begin laying eggs within 48 hours after their first feed and will usually remain stationary when a host is found. Cold conditions kill eggs before they have a chance of hatching and humidity below 45 percent will kill larvae.
A flea can jump as high as four feet seeking out a blood meal. However they can live without a blood meal for 100 days. The female needs to eat blood in order to lay her eggs. She has the ability to lay 2,000 eggs in her lifetime.
The adults on average are 1/8th of an inch in size and have a flat body from side to side. Because of their piercing mouths that help them suck blood, they are often confused with bed bugs, lice and ticks. Fleas are actually reddish brown but are black in color and wingless.
These insects cause serious diseases such as Plague, Murine Typhus and Tungiasis. Rats that are infested with fleas often carry the bacteria Yersinia Pestis. This bacteria causes the Bubonic Plague, which is usually found in poor countries. Murine Typhus is an infection caused Rickettsia, by rat fleas, otherwise known as Xenopsills Cheopis. Also, Tungiasis causes serious problems to the feet as the female burrows into the feet and breeds there. Their feeding under the skin causes serious infection. Their victim will have to undergo surgery to have them removed. These vampires also transmit Tularemia and tapeworms to human and to pets. Further, fleas cause allergies to both humans and pets.
There are many home remedies to rid your home of fleas. However, it is best recommended to seek out a pest control professional that are knowledgeable about wiping out fleas from your home with the least amount of stress and damage to your home.
Positive Pest Control provides timely and effective rodent control. We strive to swiftly & safely control these pests that threaten your home or business. We have found rodents to be highly adaptable creatures and can be extremely difficult to exterminate.
They tend to be rapid breeders and populations can grow quickly under the right conditions. Further, rodent infestations can cause considerable damage to infested buildings and local agriculture. These pests are also known carriers of many diseases that can infect humans.
Witnessing droppings, fresh gnawing and tracks are indicators of rodent activity. To achieve effective mouse control involves proper sanitation, mouse proof construction and population reduction. When a mouse infestation exists, some form of population reduction is almost always necessary. Reduction techniques include trapping and poisoning.
Mice can survive in very small areas with limited amounts of food and shelter. Unfortunately, no matter how good sanitation is maintained, most buildings where food is stored, handled or used will sustain house mice if not mouse-proofed. Having good sanitation is unlikely to eliminate mice, however poor sanitation is sure to attract them and will permit them to thrive in greater numbers.
Having good sanitation will reduce accessible food and shelter for existing mice and in turn make baits and traps more effective. Further, to establish mouse proof construction you have to eliminate all openings preventing them from entering your home.
All places where food is stored, processed or used should be made mouse-proof. Dried grain and meat products should be stored in glass jars, metal canisters or other resealable airtight containers. Be sure to seal any openings larger than 1/4 inch to exclude mice.
Steel wool mixed with caulking compound makes a good plug. Patching material needs to be smooth on the surface to prevent mice from pulling out or chewing through the patching compound. Also, seal cracks and openings in building foundations and openings for water pipes, vents, and utilities with metal or concrete.
Doors, windows, and screens should fit tightly. It is recommended to cover the edges with metal to prevent gnawing. When only a few mice are present in a building, trapping is an effective control method. Trapping has several advantages, it does not rely primarily on hazardous poisons, it allows the user to make sure that the mouse has been killed and it allows for disposal of the mouse carcasses, therefore avoiding dead mouse odors that may occur when poisoning is done within buildings.
Bait your traps with peanut butter, chocolate candy, dried fruit or a small piece of bacon tied securely to the trigger. Set them so that the trigger is sensitive and will spring easily. A good area to place them are close to walls, behind objects, in dark corners and in places where evidence of mouse activity is seen.
Mice usually travel close to the walls; place them so that mice will pass directly over the triggers. Traps can be set on ledges or on top of pallets of stored materials if mice are active in such locations. Mice seldom venture far from their shelter and food supply, so place traps no more than 10 feet apart in areas where mice are active.
Another form of traps is glue boards. Glue boards catch and hold mice attempting to cross them in much the same way flypaper catches flies. Place glue boards along walls where mice travel. Placing glue boards side by side will be more effective than placing them individually.
Be aware not to use them where children, pets or desirable wildlife can contact them. Glue boards lose their effectiveness in dusty areas unless covered and extremes of temperature also may affect the tackiness of the glue.
Glue boards are sometimes used to catch a mouse that is wary of snap traps. Another option available is poison baits, otherwise known as rodenticides. Rodenticides are poisons that kill rodents. They are usually found in hardware stores, feed stores, discount stores, garden centers and other places where pesticides are sold.
Securing any openings within your home is the most effective method of control. Rodent baits should be used only to supplement these methods. If there is a repeated need to use baits, it is likely that sanitation and mouse-proofing should be improved. Lastly when disposing of dead rodents or when cleaning items contaminated by rodents, be sure to wear intact rubber or plastic gloves.
Put the dead rodent in a plastic bag; the bag should be placed in a second bag and tightly sealed. Dispose of rodents in trash containers with tight-fitting lids. After handling rodents, resetting traps and cleaning contaminated objects, thoroughly wash gloved hands in a general household disinfectant or in soap and warm water. Then remove gloves and thoroughly wash your hands with soap and warm water.
When all else fails, be sure to call a pest control professional. We at Positive Pest Control will eradicate your pest problem safely and efficiently.
Positive Pest Control services homes and businesses on a daily basis for the removal and prevention of cockroach infestations.
No matter how beautiful and pest safe you think your city or home is, proper pest control when it comes to cockroaches, must be utilized and maintained to prevent an infestation.
Cockroaches are one of the most common household pests in the world. On average, roaches range anywhere from one-half to 3 inches long. The three most common cockroaches in the United States are the German, Oriental and the American roach.
Roaches enter homes in search of food, water and shelter. After these pests make themselves at home, they can multiply quickly, posing a threat to your comfort and health.
It is important to get rid of cockroaches before an infestation occurs. These pests are known to carry bacteria that can result in food poisoning, diarrhea, allergies and skin rashes. In large numbers they can also produce a foul odor.
When considering what cockroach control method to use, it is best to first examine your home for possible roach infestation sites.
You can do this with the help of a flashlight to look behind the refrigerator, under the sink, crevices in cabinets and shelves, closet door corners, bathroom cabinets and closets.
Glue strips can be used to locate large infestations. Based on your flashlight inspection, decide on the most strategic areas to place strips. Monitor those areas for a few days to a week.
Strips in high-traffic areas will catch the most roaches, and these areas will need the most treatment. Further, use caulk to fill possible entry points, including gaps between walls or tile, small crevices and entry holes. It will also help to use weather stripping on doors and window seals to prevent a roach infestation from expanding.
Also, gel bait can be an effective roach killer. You can apply gel bait under baseboards, in cracks and crevices, and near areas that are most likely to attract roaches. With gel bait you may see a number of dead roaches lying around your home.
Another way to eliminate cockroaches from your home is to distribute bait stations throughout your home. Bait stations work by attracting roaches into stations to feed on poison. The poisoned roach then travels back to its home location, dies and is eaten by the other roaches, further passing on the poison.
Bait stations work partially to get rid of roaches, but do not target all roaches in a home. However, many find them unappealing when scattered around your home.
Boric acid on the other hand is a substance found in products like clothing detergent and toothpaste, can be one of the best roach killers. However, boric acid can easily be misapplied and subject to displacement by air currents, sending the material into areas where children and pets can come into contact with it. It is made by combining boron and water; boric acid is low in toxicity to people and pets but deadly to cockroaches. Unfortunately when applied incorrectly, you may find this treatment ineffective.
Here at Positive Pest Control we provide a quick and safe removal of cockroaches. We eliminate the need to scatter traps and chemicals throughout your home. Keeping cockroaches out of your home is Positive Pest’s objective.
Despite the recent bedbug epidemic, cockroaches are still one of the most common pests rapidly infesting NYC homes. When roaches start popping up around your home or the home of someone you love, it is likely that you will have many questions.
In this article, I will answer many of the common questions that may run through your mind if or when this type of situation hits home.
1) What type of cockroach is typically found in NYC homes?
German cockroaches and American Cockroaches are two of the most prominent household cockroaches in the NYC area. German cockroaches being the most recognized and profuse are commonly found in homes throughout NYC and across the world.
Your home is an ideal habitat for cockroaches; providing them with an abundance of food, shelter, water, and breeding sites. These resources allow them to thrive year round in your home.
If your home has an infestation of cockroaches you will likely find German cockroaches in kitchens and bathrooms near dishwashers, sinks, and stoves; locations where they can easily access warmth, food, and water without having to travel far distances.
American cockroaches also thrive in moist, dark, warm areas. However, you are more likely to notice these pests in basements, in or around bathtubs, near water drains, and in restaurants.
2) What do German and American cockroaches look like?
German cockroaches are typically about ½ inch in length and range from tan to brown in color. The German cockroach has two dark parallel stripes running down their back.
Despite having fully developed wings, German cockroaches cannot fly. Nymphs are similar in appearance but they do not have wings.
American cockroaches are a larger species of cockroach that are a reddish brown color and will generally grow to about 1 ½ inches long. Similar to the German cockroach, American cockroaches have full grown wings that span the length of their abdomen. However, American cockroaches are capable of flying.
3) What is the typical lifecycle of a German cockroach?
The lifecycle of a German cockroach is comprised of three stages: egg, nymph, and adult. Adult female cockroaches produce capsules of eggs approximately every two weeks; each capsule of eggs may contain a maximum of about 48 eggs.
Each adult female is capable of producing as many as 8 capsules throughout their life span.
Length of lifecycle stages:
*egg in capsule= 28-30 days
*egg stage= 15-25 days
* nymph stage= greatly varies (1-8 months)
*adult stage= 5-7 months
4) Why do infestations of cockroaches happen so quickly?
NYC pest control companies commonly treat cockroach infestations. Cockroaches infest their habitats quickly due to their rapid rate of reproduction.
Adult female cockroaches are capable of producing one egg capsule, carrying up to 48 eggs, every month and a half. The relatively quick life cycle and large amount reproductive opportunities allow for cockroaches to spread very rapidly.
A NYC dwelling allows for ample resources for cockroaches to thrive. As soon as cockroaches inhabit an area, with plentiful resources and rapid reproductive capabilities, they are likely to spread by the thousands.
5) Do cockroaches carry/transmit disease or pose a hazard to your health?
Not only do cockroaches give off a repulsive sent, they also pose a serious hazard to your health. Studies have found that cockroaches transmit diseases such as salmonella and carry disease causing bacterial agents for cholera, pneumonia, tetanus, tuberculosis and more.
Cockroaches will commonly leave trails of fecal matter and regurgitated food that are possible contaminants of food and other household products. Their fecal matter and body parts (e.g., shells) are also well known allergens and may also have an impact on asthma symptoms.
6) What does it mean if I see cockroaches during the day?
Cockroaches are typically nocturnal pests that feed at night and rest during the day. If you are seeing cockroaches during the day it is likely that the population has become very large.
As stated above, cockroaches prefer to dorm in dark, moist, hidden areas. If the population becomes too large the pests may be forced to move into unsafe areas in order to find new homes. Cockroaches may also come out during the day if they are low on food or moisture and therefore are forced to forage during daylight hours.
7) What is the difference between a German cockroach and an American cockroach? Can you have both?
American cockroaches are much larger than German cockroaches; they do not have stripes and are reddish in color. While both German and American cockroaches have wings, American cockroaches are more capable and likely to fly.
German cockroaches are more of a household pest, while American cockroaches prefer darker damper areas such as basements and boiler rooms or facilities such as supermarkets where food is prepared.
American cockroaches commonly used sewage and water lines to travel to new places; hence the nickname “water bug”.
8) What is the best way to control cockroach infestations in your home?
Call a NYC certified and insured pest control company. Home remedies may help control the problem temporarily but they are not likely to eliminate a cockroach infestation.
NYC pest control companies will also be able to provide you with any information necessary regarding how you can help prevent and eliminate your pest problem.
Prior to treating your home for cockroaches, it is necessary to perform a thorough inspection. The more harborage locations that you find the more successful your control methods will be.
Next, it is very important to eliminate or reduce the resources available to the pests’ population. You may want to consider using bait for the cockroaches to eat; however, if there is food accessible they will not eat the bait. Placing glue traps will allow you to monitor the population and identify the species of roach that you are dealing with.
By identifying the type of species, you will be able to select appropriate baits and elimination techniques. Lastly, pest control companies will commonly use pesticide sprays that help suppress the problem as well.
9) Are there environmental friendly methods of preventing and/or eliminating cockroaches from my home?
Yes. One simple step toward preventing, controlling, and eliminating cockroaches within your home, is to seal all cracks, crevices, and holes that may be present.
As mentioned above, the elimination or reduction of resources (e.g., food and moisture) available to the population is key in cockroach control. Speak to your local NYC pest control company regarding select bait stations, glue traps, powders, and pesticides that are environmental friendly.
10) What can I do to ensure that my home remains cockroach free?
There are many things you can do to help make sure that your home remains cockroach free. Be ware! Double check when carrying boxes, containers, and grocery/produce bags into your home.
Sanitation is one of the most basic ways to ensure that your home remains cockroach free. Even the slightest amount of food or moisture falling into cracks and crevices will provide ample resources for a cockroach to thrive.
Sealing cracks and crevice and placing weather stripping on doors and windows, will also help prevent many pest problems.
Need more information about cockroach extermination? Visit our website or call us for more information.
Ever wonder why you are finding holes in your “securely” stored wardrobe? I just may have the answer you’re looking for…. Clothes moths!
Clothes moths are a notorious wool-munching monster. What many people do not know is that clothes moths will eat a variety of fibers including hair, felt, and fur.
Watch your leather and feather as well, because clothes moths will consume many of your animal-based possessions. Items commonly targeted by clothes moths include jackets, blankets, sweaters, carpets, and down pillows and comforters.
There are two types of clothes moths, webbing clothes moths and casemaking clothes moths. The webbing clothes moth is a solid pale color with a patch of hair on their head. This type of moth is a particularly weak flier and therefore commonly hides in dark closets and storage areas.
The casemaking moth, on the other hand, is a little bit darker than the webbing moth with dark spots on their wings.
Clothes moths are often mistaken for Indian meal moths. Indian meal moths feed on herbs, nuts, flour, and various other stored food products; they are therefore likely to be found in your kitchen or pantry.
You can distinguish clothes moths and Indian meal moths by their size and color. Indian meal moths are larger and darker in color; they also have dark brown tipped wings.
Clothes moths are generally no larger than 5 cm and are rarely seen, as they avoid light. If you do happen to see a clothes moth flying around it is most likely a male. Female clothes moths and webbing clothes moths normally travel by either running or hopping.
One interesting detail you probably didn’t know is that adult clothes moths do not feed, in fact most of them do not live longer than a month or so; therefore they are not the pests destroying all of your precious clothing and material. It’s their kids! That’s right, the eggs that adult clothes moths produce eventually hatch into fabric-eating larvae.
The length of time that the larvae feed can vary from several weeks to a couple of year, depending upon their environmental surroundings. Factors impacting their length of feeding include temperature, humidity, and even the quality of their food (yes, your clothes!).
Once the larvae are full grown they spin a silk casing and transform into an adult moth. Once broken out of their encasement, adult moths almost immediately begin laying eggs; which means more larvae to destroy your belongings.
Ok, so let’s get down to it. You want to get rid of these guys don’t you? Following are some tips on protecting your materials and taking care of your moth problem.
1)- Controlling your clothes moth infestation requires a thorough inspection. It is recommended that your hire a licensed professional to facilitate the process and locate all potential sources of your infestation Visit: https://www.positivepest.net/new-york-city-moth-extermination/
2) Store your clothing and fabrics in tightly packed containers.
3) All items that have been infested should be either disposed of or dry-cleaned.
4) Vacuuming and cleaning will help remove and kill larvae that are already present in your home. Be sure not to forget the quiet, dark areas that moths prefer (e.g., closets and cubbies).
5) Periodically brush off and expose materials to sunlight.
As always, I recommend Positive Pest Management. Our technicians can help you with the administration of chemical treatments (be sure to remove all clothing prior to application) and the use of high temperatures.
Extended exposure to high temperatures, reaching over 110 degrees Fahrenheit, will effectively disinfect materials.
Our newly renovated website www.positivepest.com has extensive information on moths and more.. check it out!
Just in case you misplaced our number… call: 1(800)294-3130 for more information and an inspection in your home.
Man’s best friend has proven to be efficient and useful for helping detect a wide range of things such as drugs, bombs, fugitives, mold, and termites.
Many scent detection companies are referring to a dog’s help to detect bed bugs. However, many find man’s best friend unreliable and limited in the detection of bed bugs. When considering a scent detection company one must look at how frequently do the dogs give false positive alerts and how often do they fail to find bed bugs.
It would be best to read the reviews of several companies you are considering prior to using their services. The use of canine scent detection can be promising in the detection of bed bugs; however, it is still an evolving method.
It is very important to be aware that every bed bug detection dog and handler team is different and you must find out what to expect from the team conducting the inspection.
A sufficiently trained dog should be able to identify very small numbers of live bed bugs within your home. Further, the dogs should have the capability to tell the difference between live bugs and the eggs from a left over infestation such as fecal spotting, caste skins, empty egg shells, and carcasses.
Some dogs have been trained to detect multiple scents which may make it difficult to interpret a dog’s alerts from mold to bed bugs; this causes confusion as to what the dog is alerting the team handler of.
Using dogs as an inspection tool is not always effective. We are depending on a dog’s sense of smell to alert us of any bed bug presence. However, depending on the location of the bed bugs, the air flow, and temperature, bed bugs can be present but the odor is simply not available to the dog.
If bed bugs are located well above the dog’s head, and the air flow is pulling the scent upwards, the dog may not alert. There could be bed bugs high up on a wall within the cracks of the ceiling and the dogs will not be able to detect them. This can cause doubt in many of a dog’s ability to detect accurately.
On the other hand however, there are just as many circumstances where a dog will alert on bed bugs that are proven difficult or unlikely for an inspector to find. For example, dogs have been known to find as little as two bugs behind a baseboard, or eggs hidden within the fibers of a carpet.
Dogs are known to alert the inspector of bugs hiding inside the box spring without the inspector having to take the mattress and box spring off. If that’s impressive, just imagine how a dog can alert to bed bugs that hide behind a heavy entertainment center without having to move it.
All in all, you have a choice to make; you can put all your trust in the dog’s ability to alert you of any presence of bed bugs and eggs, or you can use the dog as a guild and then follow it up with an in-depth inspection to confirm the dog’s findings.
This would involve removing the mattress and box spring, take off the outlet switch, pull up the carpet, remove the baseboard, empty and move the entertainment center, and go through the pile of clothing and stuffed animals where the dog alerted.
If you think you are experiencing bed bugs, please consult with your professional pest control provider; who is better equipped to handling the job that can provide you with both a canine detection alert and an experienced expert handler.
As many of you know, New York City has become the home to an astronomical number of Pigeons. Yes, I am talking about the pigeons that rest and nest on your windowsills, balconies, fire escapes, and park benches everyday!
Have you ever taken a step back to wonder why these birds seem to thrive in your neighborhood? I mean you do live in New York City, why would such a huge population of birds thrive in an overcrowded, polluted, concrete jungle?
Well.. the primary reason behind this infestation (that many people are comfortable with and encourage) is likely the absence of the Pigeon’s natural predators. I mean how often do you see a peregrine falcon swooping down to the curb of a New York City street? Large cities provide Pigeons with an abundance of food and shelter that is not only maintaining their lifespan but also making it easier for them to mate more often.
For many years pest control companies have been responding to complaints about pigeons with the recommendation of avian poisons. Some of the avian poisons, however, are nonselective in nature, meaning that non-target species may unfortunately have to take their last breath after ingesting or feeding on a bird that has ingested these poisons.
For this very reason, in August of 2000, the NYC Governor signed a bill banning the use of select avian poisons. In coordination with the ban on pigeon control through the use of various avian poisons, pigeons are breeding at an exorbitant rate; resulting in an ever-growing pigeon population wreaking havoc on uninformed city-dwellers.
Ok, So by now you’re probably wondering what all of this pigeon talk has to do with bugs right? Well, here goes.
You see, when it comes to the pigeon problem in NYC, most people are worried about the repulsive droppings they leave behind on your homes, cars, and sidewalks.. Oh yeah! Don’t forget your clothes and hair, on a bad day. Some people may even worry about more serious things such as health hazards and the spread of disease.
BUT the one thing most people have not considered is the pests of our pests. That’s right! BIRD MITES… Similar to bed bugs, bird mites are a parasite, meaning that they feed on the blood of living organisms. Although the host that bird mites prefer is birds, they are also attracted to mammals such as humans… yes… you! These itty bitty creatures will often bite humans when their natural food source (birds) is absent. Similar to their darling host, bird mites reproduce at a rapid pace, multiplying into thousands without warning.
Lucky for you, I am here to inform the uninformed.
There are many different types of bird mites, canary lung mites, feather mites, grey mites, and a major menace called the red mite. Red mites are generally as small as 1mm in length and are white or clear in color.
However, when they feed they will usually turn a dark red or brown. Bird mites are often nocturnal and feed on their hosts at night. These nearly microscopic creatures, averaging between 7 and 1 mm in length, are frequently overlooked or mistaken for bed bugs (Reference: 2). Unless they are moving, it is exceptionally difficult to see bird mites.
Symptoms of bird mites include pin-size bites, itching, small red bumps, and a crawling sensation on the skin (Reference: 1). One way to check your live-in bird cage is to place a sheet over the concerning area, if there are small specks or stains when you remove the sheet then you may have something to worry about.
Bird mites have five stages in their life cycle: egg, larvae, protonymph, deutonymph and adult. The larvae can be identified by having three pair of legs, while the nymphs and adults have four pair (Reference: 2).
Now that you have an idea what to look for, let’s back track a little bit. Remember the astronomical pigeon population that we spoke about just a little while ago? Well we all know that the millions of pigeons that are dwelling on your windowsills and underneath your air conditioners may be a pester you; but what you really need to consider is that those same pigeons may have little pests of their own. Allowing pigeons to nest near windows and air conditioners increases the likelihood of bringing bird mites into your home, turning their pest problem into your pest problem!
Some advice I would offer in helping keep your home and family bird mite free would be to close all openings and holes that are large enough for birds to enter attics and install hardware cloth on porches and exterior surroundings to prevent roosting. Outdoor birds, such as pigeons, should be discouraged from nesting in or near buildings. Lastly, I highly recommend that residents disrupt nest-building efforts near home entrances and windows.
So I am sure many of you are thinking, “well I can’t have birdmites” or “that’s fine I’ll just stay away from the pigeons from now on”. If it were that simple, I guess this article in its essence would be meaningless. Bird mite infestations are difficult to eradicate and often require the assistance of a knowledgeable and experienced pest control company.
What I am saying is, you should give Positive Pest Management a call. Positive Pest Management is a full services pest control company with over 10 years experience serving New York City. Visit at www.positivepest.net or call 1(800) 294-3130 for any information regarding your pest control needs.
-Christina: Positive Pest Management
Rats are some of the most damage causing rodents in the United States. They consume contaminate food, damage property and transmit parasites and diseases to humans and other animals. Rats can survive in various climates and conditions. They are often found close to human habits where they can find food such as around homes, buildings, farms, gardens, and open fields.
People don’t often see rats, but signs of their presence are easy to find. Once rats have invaded your garden or property, unless your home is truly rodent proof, it is only a matter of time before you find evidence of them within your home. It is recommended to control their numbers in population before they get to high. The need for traps and bait required to control them will be fewer if started early.
It is a good idea to inspect your home thoroughly looking for rat droppings around dog or cat dishes. It is a good idea to listen for noises coming from the attic just after dusk. Rats are mostly active at night. Further, look for remnants of rat nests when dismantling your firewood stack. Additionally, look for evidence of rodents feeding on fruit and nuts that
Rats are some of the most damage causing rodents in the United States. They consume contaminate food, damage property and transmit parasites and diseases to humans and other animals. Rats can survive in various climates and conditions. They are often found close to human habits where they can find food such as around homes, buildings, farms, gardens, and open fields.
People don’t often see rats, but signs of their presence are easy to find. Once rats have invaded your garden or property, unless your home is truly rodent proof, it is only a matter of time before you find evidence of them within your home. It is recommended to control their numbers in population before they get to high. The need for traps and bait required to control them will be fewer if started early.
It is a good idea to inspect your home thoroughly looking for rat droppings around dog or cat dishes. Also, listen for noises coming from the attic just after dusk. Rats are mostly active at night. Further, look for remnants of rat nests when dismantling your firewood stack.
Additionally, look for evidence of rodents feeding on fruit and nuts that are falling from trees in your yard. Be sure to inspect to see any burrows among plants or damaged vegetables when working in the garden. Look to see if you notice rats traveling along utility lines or on tops of fences at night. Is there smudge marks caused by rats rubbing their fur against beams, rafters, pipes, and walls?
Rats are mostly active at night. They have poor eyesight but display a great sense of smell, taste, and touch. These pests are constantly looking to explore new locations and pathways to food, water, and shelter. They are survivors that know how to avoid new objects. As a result, they have the ability to avoid traps and baits for several days. They gain entry to structures by gnawing, climbing, jumping, or swimming through sewers and entering through toilets and broken drains. Young rats can squeeze beneath a door with only a ½ inch gap. If the door is made of wood, the rat may gnaw his way in.
Rats contaminate food and animal feed. They damage containers and package materials. They cause problems by gnawing on electrical wires and wooden structures such as doors, ledges, corners and wall material, and they tear up insulation in walls and ceilings for nesting.
Among the diseases rats can transmit to humans or livestock are murine typhus, leptospirosis, salmonellosis (food poisoning), and ratbite fever. Plague is a disease that both roof and Norway rats can carry.
If you believe you are experiencing a rat infestation, it would be best to consult a pest control professional that will rid your home of these pests quickly and safely.
are falling from trees in your yard. Be sure to inspect to see any burrows among plants or damaged vegetables when working in the garden. Look to see if you notice rats traveling along utility lines or on tops of fences at night. Is there smudge marks caused by rats rubbing their fur against beams, rafters, pipes, and walls?
Rats are mostly active at night. They have poor eyesight but display a great sense of smell, taste, and touch. These pests are constantly looking to explore new locations and pathways to food, water, and shelter. They are survivors that know how to avoid new objects. As a result, they have the ability to avoid traps and baits for several days. They gain entry to structures by gnawing, climbing, jumping, or swimming through sewers and entering through toilets and broken drains. Young rats can squeeze beneath a door with only a ½ inch gap. If the door is made of wood, the rat may gnaw his way in.
Rats contaminate food and animal feed. They damage containers and package materials. They cause problems by gnawing on electrical wires and wooden structures such as doors, ledges, corners and wall material, and they tear up insulation in walls and ceilings for nesting.
Among the diseases rats can transmit to humans or livestock are murine typhus, leptospirosis, salmonellosis (food poisoning), and ratbite fever. Plague is a disease that both roof and Norway rats can carry.
If you believe you are experiencing a rat infestation, it would be best to consult a pest control professional that will rid your home of these pests quickly and safely.
Birds, cute and lively vertebrates could be leaving you a nasty present. Birds can carry various parasites. While these parasites can come in all shapes and sizes, they are opportunistic survivalists. That means they will be looking for a new host if the bird dies or moves on from the nest.
One parasite that is common to NYC’s pigeons is the bird mite. Bird mites are egg shaped little blood suckers with eight legs. These pests are small and have short hairs on their bodies that appear semitransparent.
It may take a while before you are aware that your home has been infested with mites because they are so small. These can reproduce and multiply into the thousands very rapidly.
Their eggs can hatch after three days and mature into adults within five.
Bird mites are loyal parasites that usually spend their entire lives feeding off of one host.
The female mite needs to feed on blood to reproduce and lay her eggs. The mites are attracted to warm blooded animals as a source of warmth, moisture and carbon dioxide.
They prefer a bird when choosing a host. However, bird mites will bite humans when their food source has flown away. For example, when young birds leave the nest or their host dies. After the host dies, one can see thousands of bird mites seeking out a new host to live off of.
These little vampires cannot survive very long without a food source.
Bird mites are known to infest bedrooms and bathrooms. You will find them, in carpeting, clothing, bedding, and furniture. The mites tend to hide in dark areas within your home when not active.
They are most active at night and less on hot, dry, sunny days. Their activity peaks it seems when new bird mites mature which is about one time per 7 day cycle. In addition, bird mites have an increase in activity during the late summer months where there is an increase in bird population.
Many refer to bird mites as “creepy crawlies” or “nose ticklers” because of the constant itching and irritation to the skin caused by the mite’s saliva. Many doctors have mistaken bird mite bites for scabies because of the rash it resembles.
Some sufferers complain of symptoms that appear like small red bumps, pinprick bites and having a crawling sensation to name a few. Once established that your home is infested with bird mites, it is recommended to seek out a pest control professional because they are very difficult to fully eradicate on your own.
First, to take control of the bird mite population in and around your home, it is important to identify where they breed and nest. An easy way to locate bird mites is by having the bird nests that surround your home examined, they tend to set up shop within the nests of their hosts.
People that live near bird nests, have resting pigeons on their window sills, or have animals infected are vulnerable to bird mites. Second, you will have to have all bird nests removed.
However, it is suggested to consult with a pest control professional before attempting this on your own because they can choose the appropriate pesticides and extermination procedures that will protect certain protected bird species under state and government regulations.
A bee’s sting holds on and attaches itself to the affected area. When a bee tries to pull away from the person it stings it dies as a result to its abdomen tearing from the rest of its body.
The bee’s venom sac slowly releases venom into the wound; forcing the human body to react by liberating fluid that contains histamine from the blood to clean the venom from the area.
Swelling and redness usually occurs at the sting site causing the area to feel tender for several days after the sting.
If an individual has previously experienced a bee sting by a certain species of bee, a heightened response occurs, resulting in a larger swelling at the sting site.
The sting site may swell and itch as it begins to heal. It is advised to refrain from scratching the site to prevent bacteria from infecting the wound and causing a secondary infection.
The first thing you should do before you begin to treat a bee sting is get away from the bees. When bees sting they release an “alarm pheromone” to alert the other bees within the colony that they are being threatened to join the attack.
Further, once you are safely away from the bees, remove the sting quickly as possible. The longer the sting remains in the wound, the more venom that is injected into the wound and the more intense the resulting reaction.
To achieve this use your fingernail, a knife or a credit card to pinch the sting or scrape it off. Be sure to wash the site thoroughly with soap and water after the sting is removed.
In addition, apply antibiotic ointment and a sterile bandage on top; followed by ice for 20 minutes per hour to reduce pain and swelling. You can take an antihistamine for itching and/or ibuprofen or acetaminophen for pain relief.
Medical attention is advised for bee stings if you are experiencing any of the following:
Firstly, if you find that you have previously experienced an allergic reaction to a bee sting. Further, if you are experiencing more than 10 stings at one time, especially in children and the elderly.
You should seek out medical attention if the sting occurred in the mouth or throat, especially in children and if you find the sting occurred on the eyeball itself. If you find you are having redness greater than 10 inches across or notice signs of an infection that consists of increasing pain, swelling, redness, drainage of pus, and fever; please seek out medical attention.
Many are hypersensitive to bee stings, a condition known as “anaphylaxis.”
Anaphylaxis is a severe allergic reaction to bee or wasp sting. Allergic reactions to stings, can develop anywhere on the body and can range from non-life-threatening reactions, such as hives, swelling, nausea, vomiting, abdominal cramps, and headaches to life-threatening reactions, such as anaphylactic shock, unconsciousness, difficulty breathing, and blockage of the airway.
It is recommended that these individuals carry an adrenaline kit with them and should seek medical attention immediately after being stung, even if the kit is used.
A bee’s nest should not be removed unless it is a danger to humans. If it is determined that a nest must be removed it is always recommended to call a pest control professional who can determine the best insecticides to use and the best method of application.
As many of you know bedbugs are infesting homes nationwide. Well, if you didn’t know, here’s your warning. Bedbugs are a nearly microscopic nocturnal pest that will easily go undetected if you are not allergic to their bites. Prior to discussing prevention and elimination techniques, I’m going to give you a quick tidbit of background information.
1)- When a bedbug bites you they inject an anesthetic to numb the area, resulting in a relatively painless bite (or meal if you see it from the bedbug’s eyes).
FACT: Sorry folks, but this is definitely true. Bedbugs release a numbing agent that allows them to feast without their host feeling a thing.
2)- Characteristic of their name, bedbugs are only found in your bed/mattress.
FICTION: Bedbugs often reside in mattresses and are more commonly found in box springs. They retreat to dark, protected areas during the daylight and are drawn to human hosts at night.
Bedbugs can also be found under carpets, in your electric outlets, in cracks and crevices around your home, and on other furniture, including plastic chairs.
3)- Bedbugs are transported by their human host, similar to head lice.
FICTION: Bedbugs do not travel on their preferred host. However, they may hitch a ride from them. That’s right, bedbugs will frequently broaden their horizons by attaching to an article of clothing, material, or piece of furniture that is being taken or carried out of the room or house.
4)- Bedbugs should be called “modern day vampires”; they suck your blood and feed at night.
FACT: Well whether they should be called modern day vampires may not be fact but it is true that they suck your blood and feed at night. Bedbugs are nocturnal meaning that they prefer to leave their dark little corners at night and attract to their hosts.
These blood-sucking parasites are attracted primarily to the carbon dioxide and warmth that the human body gives off. Prior to feeding on their host these pests are flat, oval-shaped and brown. After feeding, these insects will fill up, expanding a few times their original size and changing to a dark red color.
5)- This blood-sucking parasite is one of the easier pests to detect and eliminate.
FICTION: They are, in fact, one of the most difficult home-dwelling pests for residents and professionals to detect and eliminate. Full grown bedbugs will reach approximately 5mm in length and often hide during the day. Their prime feeding time is during early morning hours, when most humans are in their deepest stages of sleep. Bedbugs have 7 stages in their lifecycle from egg to adult. Due to their various life stages and microscopic size, they are most efficiently detected by human or k-9 inspection. Inspection is only one of the first, yet essential, steps to a successful elimination program. Elimination can be very difficult for residents and licensed professionals because without thorough inspection one will never know if any of the little guys hitched a ride into the next room.
6)- Small specks of blood and fecal stains found on your sheets are a clear sign of bedbugs.
FACT: RED FLAG!!! These guys WILL leave behind left-overs from their meal. You got it! The barely visible black specks are the blood and fecal stains left behind by your nighttime pest. Go! Go check your sheets!
7)- Bedbug bites are small, red bumps. You’ll know them if you see them.
FICTION: Not all individuals will have the same reaction to the bite of this pesky parasite. In fact some people will have no reaction at all. Hence, another reason why the presence of a bedbug infestation may be overlooked or mistaken.
If you are having an allergic reaction to the bite you may notice varied degrees of size and redness. Some bites may have a small red dot in the center or even appear in clusters.
8)- I can eliminate my bed bug problem with home remedies, over the counter spray, or plastic mattress covers.
FICTION: As aforementioned, bedbugs are one of the most difficult pests to detect and control. Using a home remedy or over the counter product may not target all of the pests and therefore send them into hiding.
Without a thorough inspection by a trained professional it is unlikely that all infected areas will be properly treated, down to every last bug. Licensed professionals can provide a checklist of preventive measures for the resident to help ensure that the professionally administered treatment will be effective.
Placing a bedbug protective mattress cover on your mattress AFTER treatment will help prevent re-infestation. DO NOT place this mattress cover on your bed if you think that you have an infestation. You will simply be giving the best a protected enclosed area to dwell and thrive; I don’t think you want that.
9)- These pesky little blood-suckers reproduce at rapid rates, infesting your home like cockroaches.
FACT: Yes, that’s right! These bed-dwelling insects are capable of reproducing at greater rates than the dreaded cockroach. I bet you haven’t heard that one before. A female cockroach will generally produce about 2 to 3 hundred eggs in her lifetime.
A bedbug, on the other hand, is capable of laying several hundred eggs, averaging 5-10 per day. An egg will develop into a full adult within approximately one month. And you guessed it, one month later those ten are laying ten of their own.
The spread of bedbugs is not a joke. The rapid rate of reproduction increases the possibility of infestation, especially in the absence of early detection. So move aside roaches, we have a new epidemic in town!
10)- Pesticides alone are the most effective elimination techniques.
FICTION: Surprise! The true solution to your bedbug problem is here in your neighborhood and that is EXPERIENCE. There are many methods of Bed Bug Control but none of them will be effective if not administered correctly.
If I were you I would give Positive Pest Management a call at 1(800)294-3130 or visit them at https://www.positivepest.net for more information ad/or an inspection.
Believe me, I know bedbugs can be a royal pain. I hope I was able to provide you all with some useful information. So if you suspect that bedbugs are haunting your home at night, be bedbug smart. Call Positive Pest!
The Indian meal moth is considered a good looking moth that has a long wing expansion of about 5/8 inches. The wings are usually grey, with the rear half of the wing a reddish brown, a rusty grey, bronze with a cooper luster.
This wing pattern distinguishes the Indian meal moths from other household moths. Adults are usually found resting on the grain surface or grain bin walls. These pests fly at night and are found around lights.
A mature female is capable of laying 100 to 300 eggs on food material. Their eggs are very small, appear whitish and have an oval shape. In groups of about twelve to thirty, eggs are deposited on the grain surface. Larvae begin to hatch between two to fourteen days.
Newly hatched larvae are small and difficult to see without a microscope. They feed on fine materials within the grain and are small enough to pass through a sixty mesh screen. The larger larvae are yellow, green, or pink. Fully grown larvae are measured at about one half to five eights of an inch in length with a brown head capsule.
The larval stage lasts from two weeks to one year. Larvae are not capable of chewing through packages so they usually enter through holes. They are usually seen feeding off of grain germ on the top of one to two inches of the bag.
The Indian meal moth can infest and are found feeding off of a wide range of dry foods such as dry pet food, birdseed, cereal, dried soup mixes, bread, pasta, rice, flour, spices, dried spices, dried fruits and nuts to name a few.
Like other insects, moths and butterflies have four wings, six legs, and a jointed body divided into three sections—head, thorax, and abdomen. These pests can be detected by their silken threads found wherever they crawl.
When mature, larvae will spin a silken cocoon and manifest into a light brown pupae. Loose clinging webbing on the grain is a big indicator of an infestation.
If the temperature permits, the Indian meal moth can survive and reproduce. A typical life cycle from egg to adult takes about twenty eight days under optimal conditions.
With a temperature of 50 degrees, a potential for seven to nine generations per year is capable. However, during the winter months fewer generations are able of completing their life cycle due to the cold temperatures.
To rid your home of the Indian meal moth you must firstly inspect and identify all infestation’s food sources. Make sure to give attention to items that have been stored in your kitchen for a long period of time or have not been closed or sealed properly.
After you empty all your cabinets, check and clean them. Further, throw out any food that could be infested. Make sure to properly clean with soap and water any food that could have spilled while emptying the cabinets. In addition, clean the cracks, corners, behind appliances, behind picture frames and between shelves of your cabinets; there could be larvae or pupae still hiding there.
Check for walking larvae on the ceiling of your cabinets or pantry. It is very important to seal glass or plastic containers to prevent any further infestation. Lastly, if you want to rid your home of the Indian meal moth safely and fast, call a pest control professional.
The Palmetto Bug is a commonly used nickname for the American cockroach. Many refer to the Palmetto bug as water bug, flying water bug and the Bombay canary.
The palmetto bug earned its nickname because it likes to hide under the safe and shaded leaves of palm trees. These pests were accidentally introduced to the United States through trade with Africa. These pests are reddish brown in color, 1” to 1 ½ in size, and have six legs.
Palmetto bugs are not known to bite people. However, in extreme infestations, cockroaches have been known to nibble on people when there is no other food available. Palmetto bug bites are not serious and should cause nothing more than a small red mark.
Their diet consists of both plants and meat. These pests carry a variety of disease-causing pathogens from their tendency to hide in unsanitary areas like sewers and drains, and eat decaying food scraps and animals. Further, these cockroaches can easily contaminate kitchen counters, clean dishes and food.
Also, the most common illnesses people get from palmetto bugs are digestive diseases. These symptoms include vomiting, stomach cramps and diarrhea. Many have complained of experiencing allergic reactions to cockroaches or their shed skins and droppings. Allergic reactions to cockroaches include sneezing, rashes and even asthma attacks.
Palmetto bugs are known to live in large groups, sometimes in the hundreds or thousands. They hide in safe places that are damp and dark. They are known to find shelter under palm leaves, in hollow trees, among shrubs and in woodpiles.
Furthermore, these pests like to hide within the foundation of your house, near your pool, in your sprinkler system and even under your roof shingles. These cockroaches are usually active at night; this is when palmetto bugs search for food. They will eat almost anything whether its food scraps in the garbage or the glue from bookbindings.
They seem to like sweet and starchy foods. Palmetto bugs are known to live for 2 to 3 months without food and a month without water.
The female is likely to make one egg capsule of 14 to 16 eggs each week and can lay anywhere from 15 to 90 capsules in a lifetime. The egg capsule is less than a half inch long and dark brown.
The female will usually hide it in a safe place near food. The egg will hatch in less than two months. The nymphs are a grayish brown when they first hatch and will continue to darken and get more brown as they molt. They will molt 9 to 13 times before it becomes an adult. These pests can live for a year and sometimes longer.
From all the cockroaches that frequently invade houses, palmetto bugs are the largest. These reddish brown cockroaches can grow as long as 1.5 inches or more. Both males and females have wings.
When outside conditions are found unsuitable, these insects will migrate indoors and that’s when you find palmetto bugs in your home. These pests like to hide in dark, moist spaces like basements, sewers, crawl spaces, drains, and near the bathtub or garbage can. They usually stay hidden during the day, you may not notice a problem until there is a big infestation.
Some of the many signs of a palmetto bug infestation to look out for include a distinct musty smell; look for chew marks on curtains, stamps, envelopes and bookbindings. Palmetto bugs love to eat anything with glue or starch. Another sign of a palmetto bug infestation to look out for are shed skins and droppings, that look like pepper flakes, in cracks and crevices around your home.
If you are experiencing a Palmetto bug infestation call a pest control professional who has the education to identify your pest problem. Lastly, find a pest control professional that has the equipment and skills to effectively address your bug problem.
Yes! In fact, there are thousands of species of fleas thriving in homes and fur coats worldwide. The two most common types of fleas that affect the human species are the cat flea and dog flea. The dog flea, however, seems to have a preference for outdoor hosts as opposed to human hosts.
2)- What do fleas look like?
Fleas are extremely tiny; their small size and dark color make them very difficult to detect. An adult cat and/or dog flea will often be as small as 1/12 of an inch. They are dark-colored (i.e., dark brown), have 3 pairs of legs, and do not have wings. The appearance of a flea will transform from a hairy larva to a folded up version of a flat, dark-brown adult flea. When looking directly at a flea it may appear as it has been flattened.
3)- Are domestic pets always the preferred host of a flea?
Domestic pets are the preferred host of a flea, yes, however they are not ALWAYS the preferred host. Although these house infesting pests have become orally equipped to puncture the skin of an animal, as well as suck their blood (both genders feed on blood), in times of need they will feed on an alternate host. When their preferred host is absent, a population of hungry fleas will accumulate and feed off of almost any warm-blooded host that is present. Due to their preference for the blood of your pets and outdoor rodents, it is possible and common for humans to co-exist with their pets’ pests, with the exception of an occasional bite.
4)- How do I identify a flea bite on myself or another family member?
The most common site of flea bites on a human are generally on their legs and ankles. They will leave 2 or 3 bites in a row that will appear as small red spots. A flea bite is distinctly identified by a light-colored dot in the center of the red bite. This dot is the site where the flea punctured the human’s skin. These bites rarely swell and will only bleed if the mark is being irritated or scratched. However, beware because human reactions to a flea bite will vary by person; some individuals will develop severely irritated spots while other individuals will have no reaction.
5)- How do I know if my loving pet is harvesting an infestation?
Luckily enough, flea infestations on your loving pet can often be easily identified by the pet-owner. Pets will commonly display signs of constant scratching and biting at themselves. The animal’s skin may become irritated and their fur may become roughened. Irritation of the skin, itchiness, and the presence of a rash are believed to be caused by secretions that the pest injects into their host while feeding.
6)- Can these blood-suckers transmit disease?
Due to their lack of host specificity and continual feeding habits, the potential spread of disease-causing organisms increases significantly for these insects. The risk of transmission from animals to human may also be maximized by environments such as parks and wildlife facilities. Some common pathogens that may be transmitted include plague-causing organisms, typhus-causing organisms, and tapeworms. Rodents foster plague-causing organisms that can be passed on to the human species by the oriental rat flea (Xenopsylla cheopis). Cats and dogs, on the other hand, are more likely to transmit tapeworms which they acquire by ingesting adult fleas with larval tapeworms (https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g7380).
7)- How do I prevent, protect, and treat my home for an infestation?
There are multiple stages in the life cycle of a flea including egg, larva, pupa, and adult. In order to effectively control fleas it is important to consider all stages of the fleas life cycle, as they may be found on or off of a pet and inside or outside of the home.
Here are some tips on how to prevent and treat your home for a flea infestation…
Prevention:
-Regularly treat your pet with a veterinarian recommended product.
Protection:
-Regularly wash all bedding, rugs, and material that your pet has frequent access to. Just because your pet has been treated does not mean that the area in which the pet hangs out in is flea free.
-Use a flea comb when grooming your pet.
-Regularly bathe your pet (soap is very effective at killing fleas when it is left on for several minutes).
-Ensure that wild animals are not inhabiting your home or surrounding areas by eliminating food sources and sealing off all attics, holes, and roof entrances to your home.
Treatment:
-Immediately call a licensed pest control company (I recommend: Positive Pest Management) to ensure a thorough identification, inspection, and treatment.
-As hosts move around their residence, fleas fall off. These loose eggs will hatch and develop into new fleas that can re-infest your poor pet. Therefore, it is recommended that you devoutly (meaning once a week!) vacuum your entire residence, particularly your pets’ favorite areas. (However, I WARN you that vacuuming will NOT remove all fleas, this is simply one portion of an integrated treatment program). Also note that vacuum bags should be immediately and tightly sealed and disposed of outside of the home to ensure removal of any pests that may have been removed.
-Larval treatment is key to an effective program! This can often be resolved with the use of spraying and dusting (done by a license professional!). With the use of a chemical treatment that utilizes growth-regulating hormones, a professional will be able to prohibit the larva from turning into a pupa and therefore prohibit the growth of new adult fleas (https://entomology.ca.uky.edu/ef602).
Hope I was able to answer some of your most important questions and prepare you for any future pest needs…
I suggest you give Positive Pest Management a call at 1(800)294-3130 or visit them at https://www.positivepest.net for more information ad/or an inspection.
The Rodent problem in New York City is undeniable. To make matters worse, New York City rats are busier during the winter than at any other time of the year.
Rats are looking to get out of the cold while scavenging for food. If they find their way into your building, they will damage drywall, gnaw through wiring creating a fire hazard and start to breed.
The best time to fight the rats is before they get in.
Positive Pest Management offers pest and rodent exclusion services! We will come to your building or facility and do a complete inspection finding all of your building vulnerabilities. We find the places that the pests and rodents can get into your building such as through cracks in the foundation or spaces around pipes leading into your property.
We will also make recommendations regarding conditions that will increase your chances of having a problem, such as trees against the building or placement of garbage bins or storage facilities.
If you already had a rodent issue, Positive Pest Management has the experience and skill to handle any extermination situation related to rats or mice. Typically, these pests are controlled with traps, baits, as well as rodent exclusion, which helps to reduce places where they can harbor.
Operated by Benett Pearlman who is a former 10-year Regional Director of the New York State Pest Management Association. Positive Pest Management specializes in commercial, residential, and industrial properties. We’re in the trenches everyday, trouble shooting on site and committed to permanently solving all your pest problems in a cost-effective manner.
Active flea season depends on where you live; some places have to contend with them year round while others get to take a break during the cold winter months.
Fleas can survive in a dormant state under the right conditions, such as in cold weather. Just because fleas aren’t actively bothering you or your dog during the winter, be aware they may still be present, waiting for the right opportunity.
A single flea has the ability to bite your dog or cat more than 400 times in a single day, consuming more than its body weight of your pet’s blood. A female flea can lay hundreds of eggs on your unsuspecting pet, making him the unwitting host of many future flea generations.
The first step to eradicating fleas from your home is to treat the source of the problem. Most flea infestations stem from pets. Your cat or dog might have caught fleas while running around the yard, or from other animals during boarding or a play date.
Further, a common indication that your pet has caught fleas is witnessing them repeatedly scratching and grooming themselves. This is caused by the discomfort of the flea activity as the adult fleas feed on your pet’s blood. Be sure to treat your pet first, it makes no sense to treat the entire house if your pet is going to keep bringing fleas in.
Since the neck and tail of your pet are a flea’s favorite areas, try using a flea comb. In addition, drop any fleas you comb off into hot soapy water to kill them.
Your veterinarian can provide a safe flea control treatment for your pet and your climate area. Oral and topical applications start protecting your pet before the flea population begins to increase during the warmer months of “flea season.” Learning how to get rid of fleas ultimately means embracing prevention.
To prepare your home for cleaning be sure to pick up all of the stray items from all carpeted areas of your home. This includes clothes, toys, shoes, boxes, and papers. You want your vacuum to have access to all carpet and flooring throughout the home. Be sure to remove items inside of closets and under the beds as well.
To protect other pets try to remove them from the home such as fish or birds. Be sure to cover aquarium tanks and bird cages, as well as any water dishes or food bowls. Turn off any systems that support the pet’s environment, such as aerators in fish tanks or heat rocks in reptile tanks. Ideally, you should do this when the entire family is also out of the house.
Before you move in for the kill, take a walk through every room looking for signs of fleas and their larvae. Fleas in a carpet can look like tiny dark specks which disappear just as quickly as they appeared. Fleas usually congregate in places where your pets sleep the most.
Be sure to monitor your pet’s bedding for flea dirt, the adult flea feces, also can indicate activity. Flea dirt looks similar to coarse ground black pepper and may be seen in pet beds, carpets, rugs and other areas where the animal host rests. These specific breeding grounds need extra attention. Carpets and rugs are usually popular flea locations. Female fleas prefer to lay their eggs on the surface hair of the host.
Shortly after, the eggs drop from the host and if those eggs drop on carpets, bedding or furniture, they become a flea infestation source. Spray carpets and upholstery in the home. Fleas love dark places, so spray under furniture and in crevices. In Addition, some foggers are effective up to seven months, long enough to kill all the life stages of a flea in most cases. You may need to use two to three foggers depending on the size of your home. Also, it is important to invest in a reliable vacuum.
A good vacuum cleaner is very effective at removing flea larvae, pupae, eggs, adults and flea feces. Carefully vacuum under beds and any other furniture that you weren’t able to move. Also, use corner attachments for baseboards, heat vents, floor cracks, carpet edges and room corners. Focusing on the elimination of just the adult fleas is not affective. You will shortly have a new generation of vampires to address.
Vacuuming also helps to get rid of the dried blood and feces, resulting in the removal of the food sources of developing fleas. Further, vacuuming stimulates fleas to leave their cocoon prematurely. Since the cocoon is resistant to insecticides, this is an important step for thoroughly killing fleas. Also, as you vacuum, the nap of the carpet raises up. This makes it easier for insecticides to get deep down into the fibers where stubborn, developing fleas take refuge.
After you complete vacuuming the carpets, continue vacuuming any hardwood floors, linoleum and tiles throughout your home. Then, vacuum furniture, upholstery, cabinets, cushions, pillows and even your bed. It is recommended that you seal the vacuum bag tightly and remove it from the home to prevent the fleas from spreading any further. It is important to repeat this thorough vacuuming every other day until the flea infestation is gone.
To rid your home of fleas it is recommended to call a pest control professional. Positive Pest Control can provide a safe, timely and effective multifaceted treatment plan for your home; addressing both chemical and physical methods.
